Exploring Panama

Current Date: 26th June 2022

Current Location: Ebley. England

We left Linton Bay and made our way westward along the northern coast of Panama, via Portabelo to Shelter Bay Marina. Portabelo was much fought over in the 1700s. Spain used this lovely natural harbour to ship out its silver and Britain thought it would like some of the action. Plenty of to-ing and fro-ing have left impressive ruined fortifications. It was here too that Sir Francis Drake died, possibly of dysentery in 1596 and he was buried at sea close to what is now known as Drake Island at the entrance to the bay.

The now sleepy town of Portabelo.

Mehalah dodging the Spanish guns.

And so we arrived at the entrance to the Panama Canal, creeping along the small ships channel shoreside of the big ships. A few miles out from the massive entrance breakwater we radioed Christobal Traffic Control on Ch12. They told us to wait for one large ship to emerge into the Atlantic after which we could sneak in and continue inside to Western breakwater to Shelter Bay where we had previously met Peter and Sally on Milly for their transit through the canal. Very exciting to be back there as we tied up in the marina

We were here to, yet again, put Mehalah to bed whilst we returned to the UK. It's a hot, hard job in sweltering temperatures and high humidity. Sails off, everything packed into sealed containers or vacuum packed bags, canvas down, everything cleaned, gas off, water tanks emptied, fuel tanks filled, clothing washed and dried, impellor changed, engine serviced, generator serviced, outboard emptied. The list seems endless.

Out we come again.

Into the jungle we must go.

But not so busy that we couldn't make some new friends though. A smart new Beneteau 50 pulled in across from us and we met the owners, an Argentinian couple who came for dinner. He, a top back and neck orthopaedic surgeon and she an anaesthetist. They live in Pilar in the north of the country and were taking a two month break. Pilar is a wine growing region of Argentina so they brought out a bottle of red from their friend's estate!

Soon though it was time to lift out and inspect the rudder damage out of the water. You know how it goes now. Motor to the haulout bay, lift out in the slings, transfer to the trailer and trundle to the yard where we are propped up. Nothing unusual here except my usual impeccable rope throwing as we entered the dock was somewhat less impeccable this time.

The news was not good. The sleeve and  flange which protect the rudder post as it enters the bottom of the boat has twisted and dropped. It looks as though we will have to drop the 300lb rudder when we get back in September to make the repair. On Mehalah this is a BIG job as the skeg the rudder is attached to must also be removed. And then, what will we find?

Offending flange - should be bolted to hull above.

Another few days of final full on tasks were eventually completed at 9.01 by which time the trailer had arrived for our 9.00 appointment to move Mehalah from the work yard to the storage yard. We hope that the covers, curtains, bilge pumps and the promised dehumidifier will keep her dry for when we return. Reports from previous sailors who have been through the process here are variable to say the least.

We now had five days before we flew out and we decided to go on holiday! It might sound like we are on holiday all the time but this is like leaving your land based house to go on holiday. For a few days you can forget about all those jobs that need doing and the sometimes intense world of long distance sailors to explore the world outside the marina.

We had hoped to visit Mamoni Valley Preserve (www.mamonivalleypreserve.org) but they couldn't guarantee the rivers between there and the airport would be passable even by 4x4 so we had to make other plans. Remember it is the rainy season here and we heard that a few years ago 340mm fell in three hours up in the mountains. So we planned two days in a small homestay in El Valle de Anton and a final three days in a hotel there. El Valle is, I think, the only inhabited extinct volcano in the western hemisphere. Lush, green and now becoming a centre for adventure sports it lies just south of the Continental Divide.

A long, busy taxi ride much of it along the busy Pan Mercian Highway and we finally arrived at DondeJose. José lives here in this simple house on the edge of town with Liz, her daughter Khloe and Liz's mother. He has one simple room he rents out to visitors. We were made to feel as if the house was ours and José offered to accompany us up one of the hills around the rim of the volcano the following day.

Maria, Liz and Jose

And so we came to climb The Sleeping Indian so named because it looks like a sleeping Indian. Hot, humid rainforest on the steep sides of the hill as we followed a series of waterfalls eventually coming out onto an area devoid of trees where the normal wind prevents their growth. We were in cloud and José was very disappointed as he wanted to show us the view of the the 'valley', the crater, below. Gill and José chatted on in broken Spanglish and I heard a few words my Duolingo course had taught me.

Rock paintings on the way to the top of cloud shrouded Sleeping Indian.

Next day we decided to climb Cerro de CaraIguana 'Iguana Face' so named because it doesn't look like an Iguana's face. This was even steeper but mostly on tracks and this time we were rewarded with magnificent views over El Valle below. Gill was looking for a sloth but all we saw was a large snake, possibly a rat snake, as we descended.

CaraIguana.

CaraIguana summit.

Rat snake?

Then it was time to move to our hotel, the Golden Frog, on the other side of the crater for a final chill out. But not before José and Liz had sorted out our bus back to Panama City. As it happened Liz was travelling there too at the same time. So we said a sad farewell crossed the valley to the hotel.

Breakfast time.

The Golden Frog was an average hotel with stupendous views situated halfway up the crater side. It was basically empty. We lazed around, walked into town for last minute present shopping and climbed a small local hill. I can recommend not putting your full forearm into a Panamanian ants nest. Finally I sent a spur of the moment email to a guy who gave bird watching tours. And he said yes he could take us the next day. We were waiting outside the hotel at 6.45 and off we went. The crater is about 6km across and it has recorded over 300 bird species. Spotters come from all over the world. We visited the flat valley bottom floor, a pond, cloud forest and wet forest. Mario our guide had worked for the Smithsonian Institute for twenty years and then run various ornithological companies since. He was amazing identifying most of the species initially by call and then imitating them until they flew close enough to us to see them. Bird of the Day was the rare Amazon Kingfisher but we also saw toucans, tanagers, herons, swallow tailed kite, ringed kingfisher, woodpeckers, flycatchers and mot mots. Over 50 species in 4 hours. Quite amazing. Gill had told Mario she wasn't too interested in birds. She just wanted to see a sloth. Last tree of the day and what was that up in the branches? A sloth! Amazing. One happy Gilly as we made our way back to the hotel.

In search of the elusive mot mots. It is VERY jungly.

The rare Amazon Kingfisher.

And finally.....here he is!

Hope you like the time lapse photography?

Next day was travel day. José arrived in a taxi he had organised to take us and our luggage to the bus stop. The bus was early and passed us going the other way. José simply flagged it down, got it to turn around, and off we went to meet up with Liz. Turned out she was only travelling the three hours to make sure we arrived in town safely! The bus driver treated the Pan American Highway like it was a Formula 1 racetrack and then Liz's brother, who just happened to be a taxi driver, drove us to the airport. Wrong terminal but who cares. A long flight to Madrid and another to Heathrow where Harry and Sandra from the canal met us. We finally arrived in Ebley 30 hours after setting off to find our fridge restocked with food. Thank you Harry and Rachel.

Modern Panama City.

And so we return yet again to England and as is customarily when we arrive at a new place here are the key points to watch if ever you think of entering this small island.

1. It is now VERY expensive.

2. Everything works - except the trains and the baggage handlers this week and British Airways staff later in the summer.

3. They have great, deep, hot baths.

4. They have the comfiest beds.

5. No one says "Hello" when you pass them in the street. We got about 65% eye contact today.

6. Everyone speaks proper English.

7. Pigeons nest on your enclosed balcony.

8. Your best, long term friends live there.

9. It's not very warm and the sun is low.

10. The roads are even busier than Panama City but etiquette is considerably better.

11. Cheese, veggies and bread are excellent.

12. Everyone wears grey.

And some final memories of Panama.

1. Surely the best pineapples in the world.

2. So much green, so much jungle. Green, green, green, green.

3. Some dangerous areas, notably Colon.

4. Such hospitable people.

5. A very turbulent recent history (read Six Minutes to Freedom).

See you in September.

The Indescribably Beautiful San Blas Islands

Current Date: 20th May 2020

Current Location: A Tropical Island, San Blas, Panama

Early morning passage.

Dinghy surrounded by fallen coconuts 

We left Linton Bay Marina and motored east all day to the San Blas Islands or Kuna Yala as the Indians that live here prefer to call it. A 30 mile by 20 mile group of over 300 coconut laden islands many of them uninhabited.

We've been here before but not in our own boat. Remember "Fucking Bueno" back in 2016? Some cracking photos there!

Our first stop was Chichime where we were soon met by Venancio one of the sellers of the famous Kuna molas. These are layered pieces of material intricately cut out and sewn to make beautiful images of birds and fish.

Three layers of material and detailed stitching.

But now it's the off season in Kuna Yala. The wet season. The lightening season. It's quiet with few yachts in the anchorages. Time to chill and make new friends.

Like Reg (Canadian) and Debs (Australian) who came here 28 years ago on their way to New Zealand and never left. Their boat, Runner, is now fixed to the bottom in the middle of Swimming Pool anchorage by a 237kg anchor recovered from a sunken ship and delivered by a couple of local boats. They have an amazing network of Panamanians who can source anything from fridges to dim sum. Mostly it comes from Panama City, the last bit of the journey by 4x4 and then "pongo" the modern equivalent of the dugout canoes.

Or like the Brazilians from two boats we kept meeting in each new anchorage - always ready to party.

Brazilian meet up

Navigation is more challenging than normal. The whole area is shallow with numerous coral reefs to be avoided. We are starting to be able to guess water depths by the colour of the water. The Navionics charts we have used everywhere so far are less accurate here. The charts to use are those produced by a German cruiser and marine surveyor called Eric Bauhaus. His book and charts are invaluable. See below how Navionics has us  on a reef when actually Eric shows us accurately in the channel. His charts can be used with OpenCPN an open source navigation programme I have started using. Amazingly OpenCPN can also use what are effectively geolocated screen shots from Google Earth. We can see ourselves moving through the shallows as our little boat icon traverses the Google Earth image. Quite amazing and it's even possible to make your own Google Earth 'charts'.

Eric has us nicely positioned between two reefs.

Navionics would have had us on land where the red arrow is.

Communication with the outside world is much more patchy here too. Only the islands closer to the mainland have a mobile connection so our Spanish Duolingo courses have had to take a back seat. We can talk to other boats locally on Channel 72 VHF and there is also an HF net at 8.30 each morning run by Debs of Runner. It's pretty quiet this time of year but on occasions they've had boats as far away as The Marquesas on the Pacific checking in.

Sharks. They're here. Today I threw the old vegetable matter overboard. The water was flat and blue as blue. A few ramoras that live on the back of sharks, attached by their suckers, came up to investigate and then up came the big old nurse shark too. 2m long and swimming round the boat just a few inches beneath the surface. Too enthralled we didn't take a picture. This was our second encounter. Previously when snorkelling we spotted another one lying by a rock. They are harmless but we turned and swam the other way! More seriously the Kuna told the boats with children to keep their kids out of the water because a hammerhead and tiger shark had been seen in the bay. They are NOT harmless! To make matters worse crocodiles are also not unknown here though mostly they keep to the creeks and rivers of the mainland.

We're travelling on and off with Wit Wat the boat who crossed from Aruba at the same time as us. But otherwise we now see more South American boats than European ones here. Still a fair number of monohulls out for skippered backpacker charters too. But it's all very low key and laid back.

Home shopping delivery. Panamanian style.

We are having to be more careful with our services and provisions too. We are on our second, and last, gas bottle. The often cloudy weather means our solar array can only just, or not, keep up with our minimal electrical demands and we have not come across any water taps here so far. What there is though is LOTS of rainwater. Our rain catching systems are less than a hundred percent effective but we can collect over 100 litres overnight plus the dinghy which might hold another 80 litres. This is the only use for the dinghy at present as the kayak is much better in these shallow waters. So plenty for washing clothes and dishes which leaves our main tanks for fizzy water, tea and coffee making.

Part of the water catching system 

There's weed too. Big swathes of brown sargassum. It clogged our raw water filter as we left the Swimming Pool anchorage. On Mehalah this is tricky. The engine seacock doesn't completely seal the filter is attached to the through hull well below water level. It's the original, 40 years old. And once you've removed the cap and the glass and the perforated filter you still have to poke around in the inlet with a pair of Gill's eyebrow tweezers to coax out the bits of weed (it looks like short lengths of tagliatelle). And water is coming into the boat at the same time.

Just outside the weeded area....for now.

This is the problem.

I mentioned lightening. This is the big worry at this time of year. The north coast of Panama and the San Blas in particular are frequently hit. Once you have made the decision to be here there's not much you can do except cross your fingers and hope for the best. If you do get hit the first thing is to check we are both OK and then make sure it hasn't blown a hole through the hull, knocked out a through hull or set fire to anything. Next it's a review of electronics to see what's not working. Then talk to the insurers. Getting a direct hit is not to be recommended.

We'll be here for another few weeks before making our way to Shelter Bay Marina where we met Milly for their Panama Canal transit. We'll lift out there and return to the UK for the rest of the wet season. And then? Who knows?

PS: I spoke with Dave Wilton the other day. Dave of Dave and Vera our Cumbria neighbours of 30 years who brought anodes, shaft seals and Covid out for us earlier in the year. Dave was most upset that I had omitted to mention his sterling work on the generator charging and monitoring system. Here's a picture.

Ae we friends again now Dave?

Current Date: 23rd May 2022

Current Location: Green Island, San Blas

We thought we were getting good at this anchoring business but three nights ago in the Coco Banderos island group we drifted into a sand bank. The bow with the depth finder in it said we were still in 3.3m of water (which is plenty in these shallow waters) but the rudder was firm in the sand with the wheel spinning as the front of Mehalah swung around. Then there was an ominous "clunk". We carefully upped anchor and reanchored 15m further away. Next morning, after a sleepless night we donned masks and snorkels and went to assess the damage. Part of the bearing where the rudder stock comes through the hull had twisted off and we thought the stock might be bent. Added excitement when Gill shouted out to me that 'Nursey' our resident 2m nurse shark was under the boat too. Oh dear what a nuisance (or words to that affect) and we should have known better and moved earlier! A quick post on the Stevens 47 forum and it sounded as though we should be OK to limp back to Linton Bay. Today we motored carefully a few miles to this more open anchorage and we are encouraged that the stock is not bent. We shall see but we've decided to stay here a few more days before working our way west.

Not much sleep that night and not much last night either as a big lightening storm crashed around us. We were still a bit jumpy after the rudder incident but all was well as we swung into deeper water. Another 100 litres of fresh water collected overnight in the dinghy.

Tonight is a beautiful evening though. A big star filled sky with the lightening 30 or so miles away from us. We can see the Plough pointing north and to the south lies the Southern Cross. A light shone in the water reveals a myriad of 15cm fish splashing around and a couple of small sharks darting from under the boat. Usually I would get the fishing rod out but somehow the thought of hooking a shark is not too appealing!

Current Date: Linton Bay Marina

Current Date: 2nd June 2022

We decided to head down right close to the Panamanian mainland to take a look at one of the small Kuna towns, Nagana. A grey day saw us motor 10 miles and anchor in mud for the first time for a while. Dinghy into town. It's crowded together, poor but very friendly. School was reconvening for the afternoon session. Everyone on the island wore masks. Next day interspersed with the ever present thunder and lightening storms (another three inches of rain overnight) we took the dinghy up the River Diablo. Dinghy because we were a bit wary of crocs biting through the thin floor of the kayak. We grounded the dinghy on the way over the bar to the river but luckily this time no damage done. Another world. Dark and mysterious.

Nagana Town

Many, many mangroves up the Rio Diablo 

Then it was back to Chichime before leaving for Linton Bay where we are now. Chichime was pretty busy again as it's where the charter boats stock up and where most boats spend their first and last night's. During one rainstorm Venancio who sold us the molas when we first arrived came on board and told us a lot about the culture of the proud Kuna Indians. At one time the Spanish tried to conquer them and although this was generations ago he is still frightened when a Spanish registered boat comes in to anchor. He also told us that Nagana the town we had just left is no longer a traditional Kuna town. The school we saw only teaches in Spanish and Spanish is the only language spoken there. He told us he owned some coconut trees on several of the small islands and the proceeds were shared across his entire extended family. Coconuts and the hand crafted molas are traded with the nearby Colombians for rice, sugar and other goodies. He asked us if we had any reading glasses as many of the women who work on the intricate molas when the are younger lose their close vision. We gave him two pairs and promised to bring out more pairs when we return from the UK. We had a fascinating hour with him until the rain stopped.

Next day we decided to make for Linton Bay. We we're going to stay longer in the San Blas but actually, a bit like lobsters, you can have too much of a good thing. It was time to leave.

Somewhat apprehensive with our rudder issue still not properly understood, we set off through the tricky dog leg exit between the reefs in the grey early morning. We very quickly realised there was not much water coming out the exhaust, a sure sign that we were blocked with weed again. So we turned round anchored just off the island and began the risk fraught clearance of the filter again. All was well but replacement of the system has come high up the must-do list. The water we took on in this process caused the bilge alarm to come on a couple of times and as we neared Linton Bay we realised the rudder post was letting in a steady trickle of sea water too. More jobs to sort!

Here lies the problem. Another job when we lift out.

Today we has another adventure. Our little 2.5 Yamaha outboard suddenly decided not to start yesterday and despite dismantling and cleaning it it refused yet again today to start. And we needed it for a trip to the nearby Panamarina through the 'Tunnel of Lurve'! YouTube came to the rescue with a Q-Tip rotated in an electric drill up inside the sticky float needle housing and a couple of newly made gaskets. Off we set to collect 1,600 USD in cash from the marina office who had sold friends Jack and Fizzy's wind steering after they had decided to sell Carpe Die for health reasons. Dodge the shallows, cross the bay, over the bar and into the Tunnel of Lurve, a mangrove fringed passage just wide enough to get a dinghy through. Very evocative. Out the other side to find Sylvie the joint French owner of pretty Panamarina was out to lunch. So we opted for a nice French lunch, watched the vegetable man arrive and sympathised with a very hot dog. Sylvie arrived and said she didn't have the money but would go into Panama City tomorrow and bring it across to Linton Bay herself. Hopefully she and it arrive tomorrow. On the way back we called in to see Carina who are leaving tomorrow for an overnight sail to Bocas do Toro, another island group further west. We probably won't see them again.

No wonder it stopped with all that gunge on the jet.

The Tunnel of Lurve.

We have decided to return to the UK for July, August and September but then we'll be back out again to continue our travels. But before that we will work our way to Shelter Bay where we'll leave Mehalah. We are then trying to organise a few days in a jungle eco setup before flying out of Panama via Spain on 23rd June.

Click here to see all the earlier Mehalah and Petronella posts.

Immigration Central American Style

Current Date: 20th April 2022

Current Location: Linton Bay Marina, Panama

Kevin's Little Blue Shack.

 Blue Customs Container.

When you arrive in a new country by boat you normally have to check in with Port Police, Customs, Immigration and potentially the marina. Sometimes this is very straightforward as in Bonaire. Sometimes it is not as when arriving in Panama at Linton Bay Marina. And remember this is our first arrival in a Spanish speaking country too.

Here's how it went.

Tie up.

Met on dock by Kevin, dock master? Come and see me when you are sorted.

Ask for Kevin in small blue shack.

Not there. Another guy says go to customs (or is it Port Police?) in the blue container on the other side of the hard standing.

Go there.

Guard on marina entry duty says he's just gone to lunch. Come back at 1pm. It's already 1.05.pm.

Return to boat for an hour.

Go to blue container. Custom guy says have you done you Covid form?

No. Where do we do that? You need to see Kevin in the little blue shack.

Return to Kevin. Very helpful. Photocopies our NHS vaccination forms. Then sends them to Panama City by email for certification. Should take an hour.

Next day!

Kevin brings authorisation email. We can progress to the next step.

Return to customs guys in blue container.

Custom guy says do we have all our photocopies? We don't.

You can get photocopies from Kevin in small blue shack.

Return to Kevin. "Do you want photocopies?"

Yes. He makes photocopies, no charge. 3 x boat registration, 3 x crew list, 2 x passports.

Return to customs guy. He fills in big form with us.

But we don't have our engine number which he needs for his form and our registration document has printing on both sides and he needs copies of them both. Also we decide  (for simplicities sake!!) to apply for our cruising permit, which is actually only required on exit from the country. That's 250US dollars if you do it from here as they have to take the completed form to Panama City by hand.

Gill returns to the boat for money and engine number. I go to Kevin in the little blue shack who happily makes some photocopies for me.

Back to the blue container and ..... we're finished with customs.

Just immigration left to do now.

However immigration is in Portabelo 6km away.

We walk to the road and wait for a bus whilst watching a line of leaf cutter ants marching across the bus stop. It arrives after an hour. It is raining.

The bus is like out of a film. Garish, Spanish music playing. It's now pissing down. We pay 3US each and sit near the back. The bus is almost empty. We travel through the jungliest jungle.

Typical Panamanian Bus.

Inside our bus (before it filled up)!

The bus has no windscreen wipers but never fear the driver can clear the misted inside of the windscreen with his dirty rag.

The bus stops. It fills up with maybe 40 schoolchildren. Every seat including ours now has three people on it and the central aisle is crammed full.

Did I say it was pissing down?

We came to s small village. Two kilometres out the other side we think "Shit, was that Portabelo?"

Try Gill's Spanish in loud bus. Where is Portabelo? Girl points back to where we've come from. Bugger.

Large woman in front of us gets up to force her way to front of bus. We tuck in behind and emerge in middle of nowhere in the pouring rain.

Cross road to bus stop going back into Portabelo. Ask schoolchildren when next bus is.1.5 hours. We're soaked by now.

Taxi comes along and a guy flags it down. We jump in the back. 2US back to Portabelo.

Find immigration office.

Very helpful until they realise our Aruba departure document which is actually the Aruba arrival document with an extra stamp on it says Santa Marta, Colombia as our next port of call [that's where we thought we would go next when we checked into Aruba 2 months ago]. Ah, problem!!

No problem. You need to write a letter to Panama City explaining it was too windy to go to Santa Marta so you came here for the safety of yourselves and the boat. You can do it now. Here is a pen and some paper.

We write the letter.

But...we need more photocopies to accompany the letter.

Where can we do that?

In the pharmacy down the road. [You might think that an immigration office might have a photocopier. You would be wrong].

Walk to pharmacy.

Get photocopies.

Return to immigration office.

Complete formalities. Put "Galapagos" as next country! Who knows if this will be the case though.

Get very feint Panama entry stamp in passports as ink running out in stamp. 

Thank immigration staff and leave office.

Decide to get taxi back to Linton Bay. An 'interesting' journey as it is still pissing with rain (the rainy season has just begun), the road is potholed and the driver is watching Liverpool playing a Euro match live on his mobile phone attached to a bracket on his dashboard.

Nevertheless we survive the ordeal and finally arrive back at the boat six hours after leaving the marina.

WE ARE NOW IN PANAMA!

Click here to see previous Mehalah and Petronella posts.

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Passage to Panama - Wait, Wait and Wait some more

Current Date: 26th April 2022

Current Location: Night watch, 80 miles from Linton Bay, Panama

We loved Aruba. Despite its reputation as a glitzy cruise ship mecca we found the people to be open, welcoming and friendly. Their motto and to be seen on all the vehicle licence plates is "One Happy Island" and that's how we found it. As usual it was hard to meet the locals but the Americans and Europeans we came in contact with seemed at ease with themselves and happy to help us. The yard and marina were run expertly by Paul a Frenchman and local yard foreman Rishie. Boaties Jack and Penny on Ishcar and Eileen on Raven became quickly made friends too.

But what we were waiting for was the famous "weather window". All the tourist pictures of Aruba show beautiful flat blue seas with nubile beauties sunning themselves in this tropical paradise. In reality for the last six weeks it's been wind, wind, wind. All day every day at around 20 knots. And that's in the protected marina.

[Wow, there's the most amazing lightening storm some distance off our port bow, possibly over the San Blas islands. Beautiful and awe inspiring but we do happen to be the only ship and the highest point for maybe 50 miles so an element of concern too!].

Eventually though a four day window appeared and off we went. I have no idea how the forecasters can predict this days in advance as to our eyes it just seemed like the wind dropped for no apparent reason. This we realised was to be the longest passage yet on our own and with a reputation of being a nasty one. A big Cape, Cabo de Velo (the name says it all) and a notorious windy area off Barranquilla. 600+ miles in total. Here are a few memorable events.

More goodbyes. This time its Paul the marina manager.

Leaving Aruba

A very fast first day with a strong westgoing current pushed us along at up to 8 knots. Too good to be true though as we approached the Cape. We were 30 miles or so from land to counter the worst effects but we were met by a line of white water where the sea floor fell away several thousand feet. The water swirled unpredictably for 50 or so miles. And this during a quiet spell.

Eventually we rounded the Cape and were into quieter water...for a bit. Then we saw the barometer drop by 4 bars and Jenny's next weather update said there was green weather approaching. One of our forecasts, Passage Weather, uses different colours for different strength winds. Green is 20-25 knots consistent with occasional gusts. And that's what we got for almost a full day. Main sail only, double reefed. The waves weren't the biggest we've seen but they were nasty, short and steep. They rolled up from behind or from our port side before smashing into Mehalah. We took a couple into the cockpit though mostly just big splashes. It must be horrid here when the winds are really blowing. During the worst of the weather with Gilly getting a bit twitchy ("now, is that emergency grab bag fully stocked?") we listened to a couple of episodes of the Soul Music podcasts where people talk of how a particular track has impacted their lives. U2's Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For was good but Song of The Siren, Jeff Buckley's haunting ballad about life, death, lost love and shipwrecks fitted the occasion beautifully.

By today the big winds had eased leaving a hefty swell and we made good progress until the wind dropped away almost completely. On with the engine for the last 135 miles. We had hoped for and expected to travel at over six knots. Instead, although we are moving through the water at this speed we are only making 4.4 knots over the ground. Our error, we hadn't seen the strong 2 knot current against us. So we are struggling along to cover the last 30 miles. Instead of our planned 10am arrival (9am Panama time) it will be after midday when we finally arrive. VERY frustrating but a typically challenging end to a very testing passage.

Too noisy to sleep below with the engine on. Sleep under the stars instead.

Fauna

The fishing has been instructive but in the end not very productive with only one small one landed. Several others were hooked but lost together with my lures. The tackle is already pretty beefy but I obviously need it to be even beefier!. 

Tending the lines at dusk.

150 miles out we spotted two beautiful birds. J&E's Birds of Central America, one of inspired joint Christmas presents, could only offer a ?? plover which fitted the size and colour perfectly but the open ocean is not where you expect to spot them. More research required.

Also earlier today we were met by a big group of dolphins. We watched them for maybe twenty fun filled minutes before they got bored and swam off somewhere else.

Incidents

At one stage as we were being tossed around, the gas alarm started squarking down in the saloon. It smelt of petrol too. The only petrol we have on board is in the starboard lazarette. What did I find there? A fallen over can of dinghy petrol, leaking from its top. Problem solved.

After gybing in the middle of the night with two reefs the lazyjack got caught around a batten. At daybreak we motored into the wind across the waves, lowered the sail and released the rope by pulling from the back of the boat. Problem solved.

Almost lost a solar panel when the mainsheet caught around it. Disaster averted.

Started the engine with the shaft brake engaged. Rope snapped, brake anchor bent. Can sort.

Gas ran out in roughest part. Changed to other bottle next morning.

It wasn't all bad though and hit of the trip must go to Paul the wind steering gear. Following his extensive refit in Aruba he has performed flawlessly. Sometimes following the wind rather than a course can be a drawback. But on this passage with big waves he rolled with them as they swept beneath us when we could hardly steer by hand. Even when his steering string snapped (my error) he was back in operation two minutes later. Paul, you are our man of the passage.

On the go repair. The yellow rope was just not up to it.

Update: Made it to Panama through the lightening storms.

Aruba flag down, quarantine flag up.

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The Hidden City, the Panama Canal and Las Perlas

Current Date: 7th April 2022
Current Location: The PACIFIC OCEAN. En route to Las Perlas Islands

With our excitement growing Jack on Ishtar drove us the few miles to Queen Beatrix airport where we were to fly to Panama City to meet up with Peter and Sally on Milly who we had been locked down with in Carriacou in 2020.

Direct flights to Panama cost around £300 but by saying we would then continue our journey to Medellin in Colombia we could save almost half of that?! So we booked two flights each but only used the first one. Apparently the carriers do this because the route to Panama is much more popular than continuing on to Colombia. Jumping off after the first flight is known as flying the Hidden City. It meant though that we had to say we were continuing to Colombia and any hold baggage would automatically be put on the second flight. Hand baggage only for us then. We also had to complete all the Colombian entry documentation even though we weren't going there. Because of all this subterfuge we were given quite a hard time at check-in but we just about got away with it.

Two hours later we landed in hot, steamy Panama. Out of the Caribbean and into Central America. Sally had arranged for Olmedo (you'll know him by his girth) to collect us at the airport and drive us to the famous Shelter Bay Marina where we joined them to transit the Panama Canal.

A bit of geography. Although we are leaving the Caribbean and travelling to the Pacific we were not going east to west. Panama itself runs east to west so we were due to travel from Colon in the north through to Panama City in the south where we would enter the Pacific. This feels like a major step in a circumnavigation and the atmosphere in the marina is one of anticipation and a little apprehension. We will be travelling through the canal with some BIG ships. There are three locks in the north, then the massive manmade Gatun Lake in the middle followed by 20 miles of motoring before the last three (one and a pair) and bursting out in to the Pacific at Miraflores locks.

Milly had had engine coolant, shaft seal and toilet leaks but thought they had them fixed at the last moment.

The jungle just a few minutes walk from the marina is thick and green. Howler monkeys howl like lions and we spotted a coati climbing an old chain link fence. Capuchin monkeys flitted from tree to tree.

Next day with leaking pumps mostly fixed, Santiago our professional line handler arrived complete with balls and ropes for our transit. Soon we were off out into the waiting area where, after an hour or so of motoring around, Laurence our first day "advisor" came on board delivered by his own pilot boat. Our AIS showed 250 boats within a few miles of us.

Yikes!

Santiago - our professional line handler.

Ropes and 125' lines (no metres here!)

Laurence our "Advisor" preparing to board.

Big ships everywhere!

Maximum concentration required.

In the canal the skipper runs the boat, the advisor is responsible for telling the skipper what manoeuvres to make and the line handlers (one for each corner) make sure the boat doesn't hit the sides of the locks.

Lock 1,2 and 3 up on Day 1; the lake, the cut and locks 4, 5 and 6 down on Day 2. We went into Lock 1 (Colon) behind a tug behind a big orange freighter called Style. Light lines with a weight on (monkey fists) are thrown onto the boat, attached to our long hired lines and pulled up to the top of the lock. The gates close behind us and water pours in. We all try to keep Milly centralised, Peter (Pedro de Panama) steering and the rest of us hauling in the lines as we rise up the lock. Quite hard work but by the time are on Lock 3 we are feeling like pros.

As well as the "Style" we were locked in with a tug.

First lock.

The "mules" that pull the big ships into position and two of our "monkey fist" throwers.

Approaching another lock.

Final lock of the day.

It's dark now as we pull into the large man made Lake Gatun. After a mile or so "following the reds" (red right returning) we turn to starboard and through the darkness see a large red buoy. With springlines deployed Santiago leaps onto the buoy and ties us up.

Now that's what I call a mooring ball.

Now, one of the requirements for transiting vessels is that they provide three hot meals for all crew. And that's quite a task. Sally had prepared a lot in advance but without an oven there was inevitably a lot to do on the hoof. Dinner tonight is pasta arabiarta - delicious. Lawrence takes his in a paper bag as the pilot launch comes to take him off. Tomorrow we will have a new advisor to take us down the locks. It was a long but satisfying day. Santiago tells us in his broken English about crocodiles, manatees, Liverpool football club, his girl friend and his insistence that Peter is actually Harrison Ford's double! Bed.

Yet another meal for 6.

We wake up to see ships anchored all around and even at 7am there are pilot vessels and tugs scurrying around as another transit day begins. Rafael our new advisor arrives and after a quick breakfast we're out into the lake. Past the Smithsonian Institute base where they have been studying the flora and fauna since the canal was opened in 1914. Then, after a long motor down the manmade cut we came to the last locks. First off the Pedro Gonzales lock and then the final pair of Miraflores locks opened. And there we were. In the Pacific Ocean. As we exited the bottom lock a crocodile swirled past to welcome us.

Leaving the lower Miraflores Lock - Out into the Pacific Ocean

A quick motor out past the Panama and Singapore docks and we tied up in the rolly mooring field of the Balboa Yacht Club. Rafael was taken off by the second pilot craft (the first one had lost an engine) and Santiago left in the decrepit yacht club launch to make his way back to Colon.

We were on our own again and somewhat amazed to be the other side of America. In the distance were the skyscrapers of Panama City and after yet another delicious dinner served with celebratory prosecco we were lulled to sleep by giant ships passing just a few hundred yards from us going to start their own passage north. We toasted Milly and their crew and they toasted us and told us we had done a great job. They want us to sail north up the Mexican coast with them once we are through the canal. We shall see.

Up close and personal.

The rest of the time with Milly was to be in the beautiful Las Perlas Islands. First though we set off for the island of Toboga and weaved our way through a fleet of another 250 ships anchored or moving around. I fished and we caught but lost a smallish fish and we watched the larger, and larger tailed, Pacific dolphins playing around Milly. Taboga was a good staging point for Las Perlas 40 miles distant so we anchored, went ashore and climbed the southern peak in the heat of the day up to a crucifix. The island was very religious with many small shrines and the second oldest church in the western hemisphere.

The very religious Toboga island.

Over the next few days we explored a few of the Las Perlas Islands, the "Pearl Islands". 40 miles from Panama City most of the 200 islands are uninhabited with protected bays and an abundance of wildlife and fish. We swam, we chatted, we fixed the watermaker, we learned how to sail with the screacher sail, we fished and we generally hung out together.

Our own Las Perlas beach.

Our final meal together - Milly in the background.

Wildlife Update

So much to talk about, so much to see.

A flock of pelicans.

A mass of tiny mussels.

Coati in the undergrowth.

(Distant) capuchin monkey in the trees.

Current Date: 13th April 2022
Current Location: Varadero Boatyard

Back in Aruba after a wild ferry ride to Panama City from Las Perlas and a fight with the airline staff of Wingo who insisted we must buy an onward ticket from Aruba despite the fact our boat is here and we had all the documentation with us.

The amazing Panama City skyline

And now it looks as though we might have a weather window to sail to Panama ourselves next week. We shall see.

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