Passage to Panama - Wait, Wait and Wait some more

Current Date: 26th April 2022

Current Location: Night watch, 80 miles from Linton Bay, Panama

We loved Aruba. Despite its reputation as a glitzy cruise ship mecca we found the people to be open, welcoming and friendly. Their motto and to be seen on all the vehicle licence plates is "One Happy Island" and that's how we found it. As usual it was hard to meet the locals but the Americans and Europeans we came in contact with seemed at ease with themselves and happy to help us. The yard and marina were run expertly by Paul a Frenchman and local yard foreman Rishie. Boaties Jack and Penny on Ishcar and Eileen on Raven became quickly made friends too.

But what we were waiting for was the famous "weather window". All the tourist pictures of Aruba show beautiful flat blue seas with nubile beauties sunning themselves in this tropical paradise. In reality for the last six weeks it's been wind, wind, wind. All day every day at around 20 knots. And that's in the protected marina.

[Wow, there's the most amazing lightening storm some distance off our port bow, possibly over the San Blas islands. Beautiful and awe inspiring but we do happen to be the only ship and the highest point for maybe 50 miles so an element of concern too!].

Eventually though a four day window appeared and off we went. I have no idea how the forecasters can predict this days in advance as to our eyes it just seemed like the wind dropped for no apparent reason. This we realised was to be the longest passage yet on our own and with a reputation of being a nasty one. A big Cape, Cabo de Velo (the name says it all) and a notorious windy area off Barranquilla. 600+ miles in total. Here are a few memorable events.

More goodbyes. This time its Paul the marina manager.

Leaving Aruba

A very fast first day with a strong westgoing current pushed us along at up to 8 knots. Too good to be true though as we approached the Cape. We were 30 miles or so from land to counter the worst effects but we were met by a line of white water where the sea floor fell away several thousand feet. The water swirled unpredictably for 50 or so miles. And this during a quiet spell.

Eventually we rounded the Cape and were into quieter water...for a bit. Then we saw the barometer drop by 4 bars and Jenny's next weather update said there was green weather approaching. One of our forecasts, Passage Weather, uses different colours for different strength winds. Green is 20-25 knots consistent with occasional gusts. And that's what we got for almost a full day. Main sail only, double reefed. The waves weren't the biggest we've seen but they were nasty, short and steep. They rolled up from behind or from our port side before smashing into Mehalah. We took a couple into the cockpit though mostly just big splashes. It must be horrid here when the winds are really blowing. During the worst of the weather with Gilly getting a bit twitchy ("now, is that emergency grab bag fully stocked?") we listened to a couple of episodes of the Soul Music podcasts where people talk of how a particular track has impacted their lives. U2's Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For was good but Song of The Siren, Jeff Buckley's haunting ballad about life, death, lost love and shipwrecks fitted the occasion beautifully.

By today the big winds had eased leaving a hefty swell and we made good progress until the wind dropped away almost completely. On with the engine for the last 135 miles. We had hoped for and expected to travel at over six knots. Instead, although we are moving through the water at this speed we are only making 4.4 knots over the ground. Our error, we hadn't seen the strong 2 knot current against us. So we are struggling along to cover the last 30 miles. Instead of our planned 10am arrival (9am Panama time) it will be after midday when we finally arrive. VERY frustrating but a typically challenging end to a very testing passage.

Too noisy to sleep below with the engine on. Sleep under the stars instead.

Fauna

The fishing has been instructive but in the end not very productive with only one small one landed. Several others were hooked but lost together with my lures. The tackle is already pretty beefy but I obviously need it to be even beefier!. 

Tending the lines at dusk.

150 miles out we spotted two beautiful birds. J&E's Birds of Central America, one of inspired joint Christmas presents, could only offer a ?? plover which fitted the size and colour perfectly but the open ocean is not where you expect to spot them. More research required.

Also earlier today we were met by a big group of dolphins. We watched them for maybe twenty fun filled minutes before they got bored and swam off somewhere else.

Incidents

At one stage as we were being tossed around, the gas alarm started squarking down in the saloon. It smelt of petrol too. The only petrol we have on board is in the starboard lazarette. What did I find there? A fallen over can of dinghy petrol, leaking from its top. Problem solved.

After gybing in the middle of the night with two reefs the lazyjack got caught around a batten. At daybreak we motored into the wind across the waves, lowered the sail and released the rope by pulling from the back of the boat. Problem solved.

Almost lost a solar panel when the mainsheet caught around it. Disaster averted.

Started the engine with the shaft brake engaged. Rope snapped, brake anchor bent. Can sort.

Gas ran out in roughest part. Changed to other bottle next morning.

It wasn't all bad though and hit of the trip must go to Paul the wind steering gear. Following his extensive refit in Aruba he has performed flawlessly. Sometimes following the wind rather than a course can be a drawback. But on this passage with big waves he rolled with them as they swept beneath us when we could hardly steer by hand. Even when his steering string snapped (my error) he was back in operation two minutes later. Paul, you are our man of the passage.

On the go repair. The yellow rope was just not up to it.

Update: Made it to Panama through the lightening storms.

Aruba flag down, quarantine flag up.

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