Mehalah's Voyages: July 2019

Date: 13th July 2019
Current Location: Ensenada de Barra, otherwise known as Bare Arse Beach, Ria de Vigo

"Go to Galicia" they said, "Don't miss the rias". They were right. Charming they are, just out of the force of those northerlies rushing southwards from A Coruña. Each one different but each delightful in its own way. Lots of pictures this time at Wendy's(?) request.

Muros, out of the way and understated. It knows what it is and doesn't pretend otherwise. Our first experience of the rias and a good one. Tapas bars, friendly locals, an almost empty anchorage. This was to be the story for the next few weeks. Only the Irish seem to have discovered this lovely cruising ground.

Muros. Shellfish hunter with Mehalah at anchor behind.

Chilling in Muros. Dos cafes con leche por favor.

The market at Muros.

Then south round the corner to Ria de Arousa and the marina in Vilagarcia. They gave us a nice easy berth and we set off to find .... a launderette! Every couple of weeks and especially after a bit of a passage this is a good way to get to know the new town. They are usually hidden away just off the main part of the town. Gilly tried her Spanish on the guy in the marina office. Unfortunately he spoke Galician so she just picked up 'fountain', big building and Repsol station. This proved almost enough but Mrs Google did have to get us the last couple of hundred yards to Oso Blanco (White Bear) launderette. And what a launderette! Probably the best ever. Gives change, 7 euro for 18kg, clean, nice musac, self service, empty except for us, soap powder included.

A new town. A new hunt for washing facilities.

Vilagarcia is where we met up with the girls and their boyfriends (not men, blokes or partners apparently)! Emma flew out from the UK, tired from recent work trips with Medecines sans Frontiers to South Africa and Uzbekistan. Giardia or not Giardia, that is the question? Not, it seems. Jen and Marcus of course came by train via a very hard two days walking along the coast around Finistere. Chris joined us later for a spot of dolphin watching.

What a time we had. First a 2 mile dinghy trip to Isla Cortegada, a National Park where the local fishermen catch seafood at low tide, which it was. Many of those shellfish were then eaten at an exceptional seafood meal that evening.

Low water springs. Time to go hunting shellfish with cages on the end of long poles.

Don't have a boat. then dig 'em up along the shore.

The Nature Reserve (me with my new T-shirt on)!

Unprepossessing entrance to the best shellfish restaurant in the world.

Waiting for dinner.

The week continued with good sailing, beautiful anchorages, no fog, and mackerel caught off the boat for dinner. Jenny and Chris thought I only gave them the handlines to get them out of my hair until the mackerel turned up. Oh yea of little faith. We had a blast and we were very sorry to see them all heading off home. Ten trips to the train station in five days I think it was.

Jobs day!

Captain Chris.

Jenny and Marcus.

Dolphin spotting together.

Chris and Jenny braved the cold....

....Emma did not.

Last day together. L to R. Marcus, Chris, John, Jenny, Gill and Emma.

On our last trip to the station we went with Jen and Marcus to Santiago de Compostela. We visited the cathedral museum which was of course religious and all in Spanish (I suppose we are in Spain) but at the top you come out on the balcony and look down on the square where the 'pilgrims' finish their long Camino walk. I loved it here. Everywhere there are singles, couples and groups quietly taking in what they have achieved. Hugs and tears. And then from the corner of the square in came a line of maybe 150 Spanish students. Barefooted, hands held, completely quiet they formed a big circle and their leader led them in prayer. Very moving. Then the emotions were allowed to run riot. Songs, chants and many Spanish flags. Everyone smiling. We went down to the square to be with these people who had just achieved something they will remember for the rest of their lives.

Santiago de Compostela cathedral.

Quiet prayer before....

...letting those emotions out.

Pensive in the square.

Smiley in the square.

Once the girls had left we continued to work our way south down the rias so that now we are in the most southerly, Ria de Vigo. It really is a working area especially for fishing. We've started walking fairly hard each day to prepare us for our upcoming annual Big Walk and we continue to be charmed by this forgotten little corner of Spain. Next week we welcome Dave and Vera for a week. Then it's back up north to Muros to put Mehalah in a boatyard whilst we return to the UK for three weeks.

Hasta la vista!