One Life. Two Worlds.

Current Date: 22nd November 2019
Current Location: Us - in the air returning again to Bristol from Lanzarote. Mehalah - In Arrecife Marina watching the BIG boats setting off on the Royal Ocean Racing Club's race across the Atlantic.



Ebley and Mehalah. Mehalah and Ebley. They're fighting each other for supremacy. But living two lives is not easy. We try to live in the moment but we really want to take every opportunity to be aboard Mehalah.

This week we've sneaked 6 days back in the Canaries. It's warm and we remember with fondness our time here in 2014. What a lot has happened since then. My dad has died, my mum has become more frail, I've been diagnosed and so far fought off the effects of Stage 3C prostate cancer and we've had the most wonderful adventures across the Atlantic, along the Caribbean island chain, through the Turks and Caicos and up to the Bahamas in Petronella. And the friends we've made - priceless.

And so now it's Mehalah's turn. At last we finally consider her as "home". She's proved her worth and sails like a dream. She, and we, are itching to go. Next time we return, on 6th January, it will be 2020 and a proper ocean will be beckoning us back. We've gone from nervousness to anticipation and most of the jobs are done. Here's one still to do - the EBay cogs for the Aries windvane.

Nice new parts. Of course they are not QUITE the right fit. A job for January,

So much so that this week has been mostly about making M easier to live on. I've installed new reading lights in the saloon so we don't need to go to bed as soon as it gets dark. Sounds simple but of course involves getting out every tool we possess, dropping the headlining, removing the speakers, finding out the new electrical crimps are useless etc etc.

Total chaos yet again.....

....but all worth while in the end.

Gill has bought and installed a nice IKEA (yes, there's an IKEA in Arrecife) spice rack and toilet roll holder.

The new spice rack.

The new toilet roll holder. Exciting stuff this!

She's also been beavering away to finish the cockpit shade that doubles as a raincatcher. Almost finished when the feed dogs on her sewing machine gave up. Should we bring it back to the UK to be fixed or try and get it done in Lanzarote. Can they even do it here? We've left it. That's a job for January too.

A nice grin before the dogs went.

My £40 Androis tablet with free software is installed for easy reading of the key information on passage with minimal battery drain.

New instrument installed. Not sure where the max speed of 1.7knots came from!

Ah yes. We've also fixed two winches, changed a bulb, installed another LED strip light, programmed the PC to work with our secondhand sat phone, dug out the bicycle from the depths of the third cabin and Gilly's done a massive reorganisation and sort out.

And..we have tried out Vera's Mk II mosquito nets. They fit and they don't fall out. Cracking work V.

Just you try and get through that you little beggars.

On Sunday with jobs going so well we decided to be tourists and go to Teguise Market for a couple of hours of R&R. 35 minutes walk followed by a bus to Teguise and another to the market. Walk = fine. First bus = a pair of them disappear as we get to the stop. Next bus = 10 minutes late. Connection bus to the market = disappears as our bus arrives. No more buses today. Taxi €19 = having a laugh. We get the bus back home to Mehalah. At least we saw some of the starkly beautiful Lanzarote countryside.

It is odd being back. We're older now and when we pass the hospital we think "ah, it's useful to know where that is" instead of "oh look, they have a hospital here". And we've made an ocean passage once already. So here in the jumping off point for Atlantic crossers we're seen as one of the more experienced crews which seems a bit odd but that's the way it is.

OMG - where did Lilly come from.

So now it's back to England to see Jenny and Emma and friends, for the Styles' annual get together, for family Christmas with mum, Phil and Jane and the girls. And for New Year back in Gleaston with the gang. Tomorrow begins the next round of ordering bits to bring back out with us in January.

Meanwhile have a very merry Christmas and a cracking 2020.

Destination Canaries!

Current Date: 1st November 2019.
Current Location: 100 miles off the Moroccan coast halfway between Lagos, Portugal and Arrecife, Lanzarote.

So from the title of this post you can see that we made it to the starting gate for our passage to the Canaries after all.

November and we should still have a 36% chance of NE winds.

Amazingly Jack and Fizzy flew out to join us just in time to squeeze in our passage between my visit to the UK and Gill's Uncle Syd's funeral. And yes, we got a five day weather window too! An amazing set of circumstances that we had hardly dared hope for. Great to be able to welcome the ever flexible Jack and Fizzy on board at the last minute.

Consequently I am writing this at 20.10 on Day 3 of our passage to Arrecife. It is dark. It is rolly. Things are crashing about as this is our first big Atlantic swell in Mehalah. Jack is on watch. The rest of us are occupied below, mostly asleep. We've had a bit of everything so far. Fog, calm, a bit of wind. Plenty of frustrating motoring. But at present we have around 12 knots of breeze from behind us so we are rolling towards the Moroccan coast at 6.8 knots. Later tonight or tomorrow we should make our last gybe (turn) [I wish] and head towards our final destination.

To  reef or not to reef? That is the question.

It's cool to be back on passage. Jack and Fizzy have fitted in easily. And this evening was a bit special as the Mount Gay rum bottle came out. The halfway mark (275 miles) was celebrated in traditional fashion with small tots for each of us and one for Neptune to thank him for looking after us. Not so lucky was sailing yacht Loulou who we heard via a Mayday Relay was in difficulties not too far from us.

Exercise time.

That's more like it Fizz.

Earlier I had returned on my own to the UK slightly apprehensive at what my colonoscopy would show, leaving Gilly on the boat. A nasty result would preclude further passages over the next year or so to the Canaries and also across the Atlantic. But before that I met up with Emma for a footie day in Wolverhampton. Happily it was a rare away point for Southampton. [Little did we know that only a few days later Leicester would be dishing out a 9-0 thrashing]. Then, after a night with Emma's friend in Birmingham it was back to Stroud. My procedure was a success with no nasties discovered though the prep liquid was disgusting, so my return to Lagos was one of celebration and hope with the promise of a passage to the Canaries.

Day 4: Tonight was one of those magical nights when it's great to be alive. We gathered at 5.00pm in the cockpit for Gilly's delicious curry. The weather was fine. We put in a single reef for the night and watched the moon come up. 20 knots on starboard tack and tonight the sea was flat, Mehalah was unstressed and we flew towards Arrecife at a steady 6.3 knots for hour after hour. We sang our songs - pretty rubbish tonight except for The Mingulay Boat Song and listened to classic old person songs from Joni Mitchell, Simon and Garfunkel and Hockridge [yes girls, you know the ones!]. A perfect evening with great friends. Not for the first time we marvelled at how lucky the four of us are.

Testing yet another design for something!

A rare action photo.

And another day draws to its close.

7th November. On the plane back to the UK.

And now it's back to our other life in the UK. We've just flown over Alegranza the first uninhabited island you reach as you approach Lanzarote, which in turn is the first of the Canary Islands you see. As we approached there a few days ago we were met by a huge pod (40+) of Striped Atlantic Dolphins cavorting with us. Squeaking and rolling over, they and we spent a delightful 40 minutes in each others company. They came so close that Fizzy, lying down up on the bow could touch then as they whizzed past. Brill! We spent the night anchored off the tiny island of Alegranza. A beautiful remote place. We arrived as the sun set and the moon rose, a dark forbidding volcanic mass greeting us as the sea flattened and the wind dropped (a bit). We anchored in 10m of water so clear that in the morning we could see the bottom. Almost before the anchor had hit the bottom Fizzy had stripped off and dived over the side, a ghostly angel floating in an ethereal world.

Land ahoy! Arriving at Alegranza as the sun sets.

The remote Alegranza achorage with newly arrived French boat.

We had sailed downwind most of the last two days trying out various pieces of kit we hope to use on our Atlantic crossing next year including our InReach communicating device (thanks for the weather forecasts Jen). Jack even managed to assemble the sling for the the dinghy engine, a task that had previously defeated several our of regular readers. Well done Jack! Mehalah performed faultlessly and we enjoyed our last couple of days free from the stresses of life on land. Jobs were done and fantastic food was cooked (mostly by Fizzy and Jack) and eaten (by all of us). Salads (we grew our own mung beans), more salads and other delicious fare. Well done crew, we must be the best fed boat afloat and food does become very important on passages like this.

Dinner time.

Early next morning we left Alegranza and sailed in strengthening winds down to our final destination of Arrecife on the eastern coast of Lanzarote. Another rollicking downwind sail at 6.5 knots. A slight scare when it appeared that our booking in the very busy marina had been cancelled (we were one day late) but before long we saw the familiar twisty entrance to the marina. We called them up on Channel 9 and captain Gilly made a perfect approach to our berth where we tied up, took a deep breath and congratulated ourselves on a job well done. Our first long passage in Mehalah had definitely been a success. During our check in process at reception though we met up with the crew of Loulou who we knew had had a problem of some sort. It seems that in the middle of the ocean their rudder had snapped off leaving them unable to steer. They ended up being towed several hundred miles and we're busy arranging a liftout and sorting their insurance claim. There but for the grace of Neptune....

Since then it's been a return to our favourite blue tapas bar, just as good as it was in 2014, where we treated our crew to grilled octopus and seared tuna. And of course more jobs. A big bag of washing, food restocking and catching up with life admin for Gill and Fizz. Jack and I worked on Paul the Aries steering gear and then I spent half a day back in the naughty cupboard known as the lazarette at the back of the boat where we started implementing several minor enhancements and repairs to the autopilot. Whilst there you will be please to note Andy that the water lock has not moved a millimeter. Good job mate.

Our favourite tapas bar - The Blue Cafe

OK Skipper - the pressures off now.

So now it's back to Ebley for we don't know how long. We do have a flight booked back to Lanzarote on 6th January but we are hoping to get another week or so there later this month to carry on preparations for the next big challenge, our second Atlantic crossing, early next year.

Somewhat tired but safely tied up in Arrecife, Lanzarote.

Confusion

Walking the tightrope of life

Current Location: Portimao Anchorage, Portuguese Algarve
Current Date: 13th October 2019

Well. What a month. On a micro level everything continues as before. We are still on the Algarve. Jobs are getting done. Friends are being made and the sun continues to shine.

But on a macro level the sand is moving beneath our feet. Our plan a couple of months ago was to cross to the Canaries in October and then to sail to the Caribbean again in January. This is still a possibility but.....

1. I have to return to the UK for a colonoscopy to check out some issues hopefully related to my radiotherapy 18 months ago. If the tests do show a problem we don't want Mehalah stuck across in the Canaries.

2. Friends Jack and Fizzy who were to sail to the Canaries with us are themselves unsure of their own plans as Jack recovers from his medical ordeal.

3. We want to attend Gill's much loved Uncle's funeral on 8th November.

4. Gilly has some concerns over whether we are yet ready for a transatlantic crossing in Mehalah.

5. The Algarve is lovely and once again we are in danger of getting bogged down in another beautiful place.


So where does that leave us? The end of October is generally thought to be the last time for consistent winds to cross to the Canaries although November is also a possibility if we watch the forecasts closely. But we don't have long to make our decision. At present we have managed to negotiate a cancellable six month contract here in Lagos. Lagos Marina, which has no more space for winter berths, have been amazing once we explained our situation. We also have a berth reserved for us in Lanzarote should we make it across there. In that case we would probably delay our Caribbean departure until a bit later in the year. The first thing to confirm is that I am still fit. Otherwise we will be staying the winter here in Lagos. Phew. Complicated or what?!

Back at a controllable level here's what we've been up to.

A few miles east of Lagos is the shallow inland bay area of Alvor. This is where we went aground years ago when we first bought Petronella. We must have been mad to try to get all the way up the river when we were so inexperienced. Even now we decided to stay just inside the entrance and dinghy to the pretty town. The tide rips through this entrance and we were there at equinoctal spring tides which meant very low and very high tides with even more water flooding in and out than usual. Each tide the boat would swing around to face the flowing water. We were there with John on Cappoquin, now with wife Laura. A lovely out of the way spot only interrupted by a series of rescues we made as kite surfers were blown onto the mole or, late one night, a sole sailor on a small yacht who got stuck on one of the many unmarked sandbanks. When we got to him he was cold and in the water trying to push his boat off the sand. We pulled him off using John's 15hp dinghy engine.

The night before we planned to leave was another quiet one until it got dark. For some reason our quiet anchorage now had ten or so boats in it. The wind got up, against the tide and boats started to drag. A small boat was pushed onto a French yacht and the two of them started drifting to the boat next to us. Lights came on, shouting was heard and the French boat eventually drifted past us without lights. By 4.30am the tide had turned and the wind dropped so we finally got to bed. But next day we learned that the French boat had lost all power and drifted into John and Laura's boat before dragging its anchor out towards the open sea. John had jumped in his dinghy (again), gone aboard and helped them deploy more anchor chain, in the pitch black. He had left Laura aboard Cappoquin whith a flare ready to fire just in case they were all washed onto the mole!

Quiet Alvor evening,

An early morning trip ashore.

Alvor entrance anchorage - all seems quiet.....but wait.

Jobs wise Gilly has taken on the mammoth tasks of making shades to cover the cockpit and foredeck when it gets really hot further south and I've installed the first of three fans for a similar reason. She's also sanded and revarnished the wooden seat at the front of the boat - very smart it is too. The yankee (front sail) furling gear had got very stiff, dangerously so. I've dismantled it, cleaned it, greased it and put it all back together again. Now it's like new again. Otherwise it's cleaning, checking and generally getting ready for, hopefully a passage to the Canaries.

The first cut is the deepest. Preparing the mega shade.

Never ending long seams.

A newly installed fan ready for those tropical days.

The denuded jib furling gear minus brims and ready for greasing.

Cupboard cleaning by torchlight.

Back in Lagos in our new berth we made friends with Ivan and his crew on Albatross XXI. Ivan is from Barnsley with a broad northern accent. A massive larger than life guy on his big motor yacht. Ivan is an entrepreneur, friend of Richard Branson, restaurant owner, glamping developer and legal cannabis oil producer. He jetted off to Morocco to see their Deputy Prime Minister and is busy planting plants both there and in Portugal. He entertains VERY rich people - bankings, investors and the like and is due to float his business on the US stock exchange very shortly. And the amazing thing is I think this is all true! Alongside his jet setting lifestyle he has two little dogs that seem to melt everyone's hearts. What a guy!

Albatross XX1. Moving up in the world.

Even I thought they were cute!!

We continue to walk most days, often along the beach.

Still time for a stroll along the beach.

One chilled John.

Days merged into each other as we took the big train to Portimao to meet up with John for an afternoon. Another day we walked along the coast, a ten mile walk, after catching the little bus, with a smiley face out to the lighthouse on the point. This time we were with Peter and Rosaleen from Magic Elphin. Plenty of evening meals too both in Lagos and on various boats.

One for Chris Brown. The Big Budd train to Portimao. 12 years since Chris pulled the communication cord!

The Little Train. Tourist trip to the start of our ten mile walk.

The walkers.

So as time goes by we become aware that we are slipping into winter mode and the leaving of Lagos becomes harder.

The opening bridge viewed from the marina looking towards the sea down the Lagos Canal.

Algarve caves viewed from our dinghy early one Sunday morning.

Paddle boarder.

Mehalah berthed next to Albatross XXI.

A quiet eveing in Lagos.

A misty morning as autumn approaches.

But remember, we still have a possibility of making it to the Canaries this year if all goes to plan.

Sad Passage South.

Date: 16th September 2019.
Current Location: Lagos Marina, The Portuguese Algarve.

We spent the next few days catching up on pre passage jobs and continuing the general improvements aboard. In particular Gilly worked on a wind scoop to move the air through the boat when we are at anchor.

A rare sight - Gilly at the sewing machine.

Trial run.

The finished article. Well cool!

We also spent time trying out downwind sailing techniques with friends John and Rolf and installing a new USB charging station. All slow progress in the right direction.

Sorting out downwind sailing Part 1. Poling out.

And there she flies.

Installing a new USB charging point (top left).

It was time time to move south. We contacted best sailing mate Jack to ask if he would provide weather information for the next three days. What we heard was devastating. He was seriously ill in hospital. So we left Muaña with heavy hearts. We raised the anchor in Muaña only to find first a lobster pot wrapped around the chain, then some fishing line and then two 3" thick ropes. After half an hour of disentanglement - thanks Rolf - we were off.

The three day passage was generally uneventful. Our Garmin InReach sent our position to friends and family, we caught no fish (though we almost lost the line around the skeg), the weather was generally benign and we progressed as planned. Easterlies on Day 1 meant great sailing but then the wind came from behind and we didn't use the pole for some reason. Past Porto, past Cabo de Roca and then Lisbon where we had very little wind and a nasty 2-3m swell. Engine on as we continued southwards. Plenty of dolphins though including a big pod of several dozen that we felt came to wish Jack well. Three whales too - big ones pretty close.

Dolphin on passage.

After a night sail.

Cabo  de Roca lighthouse flashing comfortingly.

Finally we rounded the lighthouse of Cabo de Saõ Vicente (the bottom left corner of the Iberian Peninsula). And there we were at midnight in rolly Sagres anchorage having dodged fishing pots and buoys. As we entered the bay in darkness I could see a faint line quite close crossing our path with a light on it. Half a mile later it was still in front of us and I realised it was the simply the surf running up the beach! The light was a beachcomber working away late at night!

First Algarve daybreak.

Chilling out on the way to Lagos.

Next morning in strengthening winds we sailed east to the marina at Lagos. By an amazing coincidence the Clipper race was just finishing their first leg in neighbouring Portimao and we chased Seattle, the boat on which friend Linda had crewed two years earlier, towards Lagos. As they hit a wind hole we almost caught them up before we too slowed to nothing. So we motored into Lagos where we drank a toast to Jack in the aptly named LazyJacks. The next day bought better news. One  major operation later Jack still manages to be his up-beat self. Get well soon Jack.

Lazyjacks seemed appropriate.

The next big event was the arrival of Andy who we first met in Kas, Turkey. He was one of the brave men that answered our call for regatta crew. He arrived to 25 knot winds so we set him straight to work whipping ropes, labelling and generally 'learning the ropes'. As he is an experienced sailor we agreed he would helm the races and that Gilly and I would do the rest.

Trying to work the Label Printer!

A trial sail and discussions whilst walking along the beach confirmed this as a good approach. Then it was back to work as we tried to fix (again) the water lock in the aft lazarette. Luckily Andy was smaller than me and drew the short straw.

Back in that lazarette. This time Andy.

Finally fixed for good?

There's a long canal and a lifting bridge to negotiate in the entrance to the Marina de Lagos as we all streamed out for Day 1 of the racing. The wind was very light, the swell around 1.5m and Mehalah just bobbed along. The course was 17 miles long. We, along with almost half the fleet, wimped out after four hours with only 1/3 of the course completed and returned to the marina. Free drinks that night. Day 2 was even worse so we just didn't race. But Day 3 was great. 8-10 knots, increasing to 18 in the second race and suddenly Mehalah became, moderately, competitive. We had a great time even if we were still last but one in each race.

Start of the first race.

End of the first race.

That evening was 'the party'. Prize giving etc and some tasty food along with plenty of drink. Chilly in the night air though. Andy managed to get a good photo of a trophy we hadn't won!

The trophy we did not win!

And then it was today. We'd been trying to work out how to run all the lines for our massive parasailor sail. With all three of us in agreement we ventured again down the canal and out into a flat sea with 6 knots of wind. Lines in position, sail bag emptied...and up she goes. Magnificent or what? Absolutely beautiful. We tried various points of sail. When we got in a bit of a muddle trying to gybe we decided to use discretion to call it a day.

Downwind sailing Part 2. The parasailor.

Up she goes.

Wow, just wow!

Andy goes back to England tomorrow. We will miss him. He has been great fun and a great member of Team Mehalah. Thanks Andy.