Passage to Panama - Wait, Wait and Wait some more

Current Date: 26th April 2022

Current Location: Night watch, 80 miles from Linton Bay, Panama

We loved Aruba. Despite its reputation as a glitzy cruise ship mecca we found the people to be open, welcoming and friendly. Their motto and to be seen on all the vehicle licence plates is "One Happy Island" and that's how we found it. As usual it was hard to meet the locals but the Americans and Europeans we came in contact with seemed at ease with themselves and happy to help us. The yard and marina were run expertly by Paul a Frenchman and local yard foreman Rishie. Boaties Jack and Penny on Ishcar and Eileen on Raven became quickly made friends too.

But what we were waiting for was the famous "weather window". All the tourist pictures of Aruba show beautiful flat blue seas with nubile beauties sunning themselves in this tropical paradise. In reality for the last six weeks it's been wind, wind, wind. All day every day at around 20 knots. And that's in the protected marina.

[Wow, there's the most amazing lightening storm some distance off our port bow, possibly over the San Blas islands. Beautiful and awe inspiring but we do happen to be the only ship and the highest point for maybe 50 miles so an element of concern too!].

Eventually though a four day window appeared and off we went. I have no idea how the forecasters can predict this days in advance as to our eyes it just seemed like the wind dropped for no apparent reason. This we realised was to be the longest passage yet on our own and with a reputation of being a nasty one. A big Cape, Cabo de Velo (the name says it all) and a notorious windy area off Barranquilla. 600+ miles in total. Here are a few memorable events.

More goodbyes. This time its Paul the marina manager.

Leaving Aruba

A very fast first day with a strong westgoing current pushed us along at up to 8 knots. Too good to be true though as we approached the Cape. We were 30 miles or so from land to counter the worst effects but we were met by a line of white water where the sea floor fell away several thousand feet. The water swirled unpredictably for 50 or so miles. And this during a quiet spell.

Eventually we rounded the Cape and were into quieter water...for a bit. Then we saw the barometer drop by 4 bars and Jenny's next weather update said there was green weather approaching. One of our forecasts, Passage Weather, uses different colours for different strength winds. Green is 20-25 knots consistent with occasional gusts. And that's what we got for almost a full day. Main sail only, double reefed. The waves weren't the biggest we've seen but they were nasty, short and steep. They rolled up from behind or from our port side before smashing into Mehalah. We took a couple into the cockpit though mostly just big splashes. It must be horrid here when the winds are really blowing. During the worst of the weather with Gilly getting a bit twitchy ("now, is that emergency grab bag fully stocked?") we listened to a couple of episodes of the Soul Music podcasts where people talk of how a particular track has impacted their lives. U2's Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For was good but Song of The Siren, Jeff Buckley's haunting ballad about life, death, lost love and shipwrecks fitted the occasion beautifully.

By today the big winds had eased leaving a hefty swell and we made good progress until the wind dropped away almost completely. On with the engine for the last 135 miles. We had hoped for and expected to travel at over six knots. Instead, although we are moving through the water at this speed we are only making 4.4 knots over the ground. Our error, we hadn't seen the strong 2 knot current against us. So we are struggling along to cover the last 30 miles. Instead of our planned 10am arrival (9am Panama time) it will be after midday when we finally arrive. VERY frustrating but a typically challenging end to a very testing passage.

Too noisy to sleep below with the engine on. Sleep under the stars instead.

Fauna

The fishing has been instructive but in the end not very productive with only one small one landed. Several others were hooked but lost together with my lures. The tackle is already pretty beefy but I obviously need it to be even beefier!. 

Tending the lines at dusk.

150 miles out we spotted two beautiful birds. J&E's Birds of Central America, one of inspired joint Christmas presents, could only offer a ?? plover which fitted the size and colour perfectly but the open ocean is not where you expect to spot them. More research required.

Also earlier today we were met by a big group of dolphins. We watched them for maybe twenty fun filled minutes before they got bored and swam off somewhere else.

Incidents

At one stage as we were being tossed around, the gas alarm started squarking down in the saloon. It smelt of petrol too. The only petrol we have on board is in the starboard lazarette. What did I find there? A fallen over can of dinghy petrol, leaking from its top. Problem solved.

After gybing in the middle of the night with two reefs the lazyjack got caught around a batten. At daybreak we motored into the wind across the waves, lowered the sail and released the rope by pulling from the back of the boat. Problem solved.

Almost lost a solar panel when the mainsheet caught around it. Disaster averted.

Started the engine with the shaft brake engaged. Rope snapped, brake anchor bent. Can sort.

Gas ran out in roughest part. Changed to other bottle next morning.

It wasn't all bad though and hit of the trip must go to Paul the wind steering gear. Following his extensive refit in Aruba he has performed flawlessly. Sometimes following the wind rather than a course can be a drawback. But on this passage with big waves he rolled with them as they swept beneath us when we could hardly steer by hand. Even when his steering string snapped (my error) he was back in operation two minutes later. Paul, you are our man of the passage.

On the go repair. The yellow rope was just not up to it.

Update: Made it to Panama through the lightening storms.

Aruba flag down, quarantine flag up.

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The Hidden City, the Panama Canal and Las Perlas

Current Date: 7th April 2022
Current Location: The PACIFIC OCEAN. En route to Las Perlas Islands

With our excitement growing Jack on Ishtar drove us the few miles to Queen Beatrix airport where we were to fly to Panama City to meet up with Peter and Sally on Milly who we had been locked down with in Carriacou in 2020.

Direct flights to Panama cost around £300 but by saying we would then continue our journey to Medellin in Colombia we could save almost half of that?! So we booked two flights each but only used the first one. Apparently the carriers do this because the route to Panama is much more popular than continuing on to Colombia. Jumping off after the first flight is known as flying the Hidden City. It meant though that we had to say we were continuing to Colombia and any hold baggage would automatically be put on the second flight. Hand baggage only for us then. We also had to complete all the Colombian entry documentation even though we weren't going there. Because of all this subterfuge we were given quite a hard time at check-in but we just about got away with it.

Two hours later we landed in hot, steamy Panama. Out of the Caribbean and into Central America. Sally had arranged for Olmedo (you'll know him by his girth) to collect us at the airport and drive us to the famous Shelter Bay Marina where we joined them to transit the Panama Canal.

A bit of geography. Although we are leaving the Caribbean and travelling to the Pacific we were not going east to west. Panama itself runs east to west so we were due to travel from Colon in the north through to Panama City in the south where we would enter the Pacific. This feels like a major step in a circumnavigation and the atmosphere in the marina is one of anticipation and a little apprehension. We will be travelling through the canal with some BIG ships. There are three locks in the north, then the massive manmade Gatun Lake in the middle followed by 20 miles of motoring before the last three (one and a pair) and bursting out in to the Pacific at Miraflores locks.

Milly had had engine coolant, shaft seal and toilet leaks but thought they had them fixed at the last moment.

The jungle just a few minutes walk from the marina is thick and green. Howler monkeys howl like lions and we spotted a coati climbing an old chain link fence. Capuchin monkeys flitted from tree to tree.

Next day with leaking pumps mostly fixed, Santiago our professional line handler arrived complete with balls and ropes for our transit. Soon we were off out into the waiting area where, after an hour or so of motoring around, Laurence our first day "advisor" came on board delivered by his own pilot boat. Our AIS showed 250 boats within a few miles of us.

Yikes!

Santiago - our professional line handler.

Ropes and 125' lines (no metres here!)

Laurence our "Advisor" preparing to board.

Big ships everywhere!

Maximum concentration required.

In the canal the skipper runs the boat, the advisor is responsible for telling the skipper what manoeuvres to make and the line handlers (one for each corner) make sure the boat doesn't hit the sides of the locks.

Lock 1,2 and 3 up on Day 1; the lake, the cut and locks 4, 5 and 6 down on Day 2. We went into Lock 1 (Colon) behind a tug behind a big orange freighter called Style. Light lines with a weight on (monkey fists) are thrown onto the boat, attached to our long hired lines and pulled up to the top of the lock. The gates close behind us and water pours in. We all try to keep Milly centralised, Peter (Pedro de Panama) steering and the rest of us hauling in the lines as we rise up the lock. Quite hard work but by the time are on Lock 3 we are feeling like pros.

As well as the "Style" we were locked in with a tug.

First lock.

The "mules" that pull the big ships into position and two of our "monkey fist" throwers.

Approaching another lock.

Final lock of the day.

It's dark now as we pull into the large man made Lake Gatun. After a mile or so "following the reds" (red right returning) we turn to starboard and through the darkness see a large red buoy. With springlines deployed Santiago leaps onto the buoy and ties us up.

Now that's what I call a mooring ball.

Now, one of the requirements for transiting vessels is that they provide three hot meals for all crew. And that's quite a task. Sally had prepared a lot in advance but without an oven there was inevitably a lot to do on the hoof. Dinner tonight is pasta arabiarta - delicious. Lawrence takes his in a paper bag as the pilot launch comes to take him off. Tomorrow we will have a new advisor to take us down the locks. It was a long but satisfying day. Santiago tells us in his broken English about crocodiles, manatees, Liverpool football club, his girl friend and his insistence that Peter is actually Harrison Ford's double! Bed.

Yet another meal for 6.

We wake up to see ships anchored all around and even at 7am there are pilot vessels and tugs scurrying around as another transit day begins. Rafael our new advisor arrives and after a quick breakfast we're out into the lake. Past the Smithsonian Institute base where they have been studying the flora and fauna since the canal was opened in 1914. Then, after a long motor down the manmade cut we came to the last locks. First off the Pedro Gonzales lock and then the final pair of Miraflores locks opened. And there we were. In the Pacific Ocean. As we exited the bottom lock a crocodile swirled past to welcome us.

Leaving the lower Miraflores Lock - Out into the Pacific Ocean

A quick motor out past the Panama and Singapore docks and we tied up in the rolly mooring field of the Balboa Yacht Club. Rafael was taken off by the second pilot craft (the first one had lost an engine) and Santiago left in the decrepit yacht club launch to make his way back to Colon.

We were on our own again and somewhat amazed to be the other side of America. In the distance were the skyscrapers of Panama City and after yet another delicious dinner served with celebratory prosecco we were lulled to sleep by giant ships passing just a few hundred yards from us going to start their own passage north. We toasted Milly and their crew and they toasted us and told us we had done a great job. They want us to sail north up the Mexican coast with them once we are through the canal. We shall see.

Up close and personal.

The rest of the time with Milly was to be in the beautiful Las Perlas Islands. First though we set off for the island of Toboga and weaved our way through a fleet of another 250 ships anchored or moving around. I fished and we caught but lost a smallish fish and we watched the larger, and larger tailed, Pacific dolphins playing around Milly. Taboga was a good staging point for Las Perlas 40 miles distant so we anchored, went ashore and climbed the southern peak in the heat of the day up to a crucifix. The island was very religious with many small shrines and the second oldest church in the western hemisphere.

The very religious Toboga island.

Over the next few days we explored a few of the Las Perlas Islands, the "Pearl Islands". 40 miles from Panama City most of the 200 islands are uninhabited with protected bays and an abundance of wildlife and fish. We swam, we chatted, we fixed the watermaker, we learned how to sail with the screacher sail, we fished and we generally hung out together.

Our own Las Perlas beach.

Our final meal together - Milly in the background.

Wildlife Update

So much to talk about, so much to see.

A flock of pelicans.

A mass of tiny mussels.

Coati in the undergrowth.

(Distant) capuchin monkey in the trees.

Current Date: 13th April 2022
Current Location: Varadero Boatyard

Back in Aruba after a wild ferry ride to Panama City from Las Perlas and a fight with the airline staff of Wingo who insisted we must buy an onward ticket from Aruba despite the fact our boat is here and we had all the documentation with us.

The amazing Panama City skyline

And now it looks as though we might have a weather window to sail to Panama ourselves next week. We shall see.

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