Suwarrow - Paradise in the South Seas

Suwarrow to Samoa: 1st August 2023

We're off again on another passage. This time from Suwarrow to Samoa.

It's Day 2 and I figured you had had enough of the daily passage reports for now (I know I have) so I'll tell you about our time in Suwarrow instead. But the really cool thing about this passage is we will lose a day! We should leave US Samoa off to port let's say early on Saturday. I think we also lose an hour there too (we are currently UTC -10). But 80 miles further on is Samoa, formerly known as Western Samoa, and there the same day will be Sunday!! If losing hours is difficult to get your head round, just imagine losing a whole day. Anyway that's all to come at the end of the week.

Suwarrow. Where to start. It must be one of the most beautiful places in the world. This blog is sent to you from the ocean so no pics yet I'm afraid. Most years the chosen route west from French Polynesia would take you direct to Tonga possibly with a stop in one of the tricky Cook Island anchorages on the way. [Dave Wilton, I'm sorry about all these place names. They were as confusing to me as they are to you just a few months ago]. But with El Niño the nasty east going Lows out of New Zealand are tracking much further north so a few boats such as ourselves decided on a more northerly route. There was a lot of noise in the cruising community about whether we would be allowed into Suwarrow, one of the northern Cook Islands. Officially it was forbidden but rumour had it if you arrived they would let you in.

And so it proved. We timed our arrival perfectly. Ahead of us after 700 miles were what appeared to be a few isolated patches of low lying land. In fact they were small islets rising from the fringing reef. We called Glen (Cloudy Bay) who was already inside and he gave us a few hints on how to pass through the reef. We entered, turned to starboard and dropped our anchor in 10m of water avoiding coral bommies (oh no, not those again).

"Blue mono, blue mono, this is Ranger. Do you copy? Welcome to Suwarrow. Please come ashore at 10am to complete entry formalities". As our dinghy engine(s) are both dodgy Glen took us ashore. There's just a tiny dilapidated concrete dock with Rangers aluminium boat anchored nearby. And a small sign amongst the pristine coconut forest. Birds, boobies and noddies were wheeling overhead, upset at our disturbing them.

A narrow path wound its way past an old hammock and a couple of swings, emerging at a small wooden building with an open area. Here were arranged a table and chairs. This was Immigration, Customs and Biosecurity all at one table! We were welcomed to Suwarrow by Rangers and soon to be husband and wife Harry and Jo Ann. Lovely, gentle Cook Islanders they spend 6 months of the year alone on Suwarrow counting birds, maintaining security and managing the few visiting yachts. They told us of the sharks (lots and don't throw food waste overboard as it encourages them), the manta ray cleaning station, good snorkelling spots and just to let them know if we needed anything. What a welcome.

And so followed an idyllic few days. Initially 5 boats most of which we knew and then just us, Glen (Cloudy Bay) and Patrice and Stephanie (French on Astra). Glen had a working dinghy and we had master chefs Gill and Sally to cook so we developed a symbiotic relationship with him. We walked round the island, swam and snorkelled the amazing reef just offshore. If I lay in the water with my mask half in and half out of the water I could see the oh so healthy coconut palms and the shallow healthy reef both at the same time backed by a clear blue sky. Just magical. Suwarrow is a nature reserve and for me it was everything that The Galapagos wasn't. 1. It was hard to get to. The nearest next land was over 400 miles in any direction. 2. I felt welcomed and not taken advantage of. 3. I felt at one with the environment here.

Bizarrely Stephanie on Astra the French boat had been a dresser of famous people in her previous Parisian life. On board she had 150 haute couture dresses. Sally and Gill went for a surreal fashion show with the hope of picking up some bargains. No chance. They came away empty handed.

Soon though it was time to leave. A storm was predicted for the end of the week and I need to be somewhere for my PSA test early next week. One option was Pago Pago in US Samoa but we've opted for the quieter Samoa a few miles further on.

So here we are poled out on port tack on a lovely downwind day. Just caught a small wahoo we threw back and in 35 minutes it's my watch. Time to go.



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