Sad Passage South.

Date: 16th September 2019.
Current Location: Lagos Marina, The Portuguese Algarve.

We spent the next few days catching up on pre passage jobs and continuing the general improvements aboard. In particular Gilly worked on a wind scoop to move the air through the boat when we are at anchor.

A rare sight - Gilly at the sewing machine.

Trial run.

The finished article. Well cool!

We also spent time trying out downwind sailing techniques with friends John and Rolf and installing a new USB charging station. All slow progress in the right direction.

Sorting out downwind sailing Part 1. Poling out.

And there she flies.

Installing a new USB charging point (top left).

It was time time to move south. We contacted best sailing mate Jack to ask if he would provide weather information for the next three days. What we heard was devastating. He was seriously ill in hospital. So we left Muaña with heavy hearts. We raised the anchor in Muaña only to find first a lobster pot wrapped around the chain, then some fishing line and then two 3" thick ropes. After half an hour of disentanglement - thanks Rolf - we were off.

The three day passage was generally uneventful. Our Garmin InReach sent our position to friends and family, we caught no fish (though we almost lost the line around the skeg), the weather was generally benign and we progressed as planned. Easterlies on Day 1 meant great sailing but then the wind came from behind and we didn't use the pole for some reason. Past Porto, past Cabo de Roca and then Lisbon where we had very little wind and a nasty 2-3m swell. Engine on as we continued southwards. Plenty of dolphins though including a big pod of several dozen that we felt came to wish Jack well. Three whales too - big ones pretty close.

Dolphin on passage.

After a night sail.

Cabo  de Roca lighthouse flashing comfortingly.

Finally we rounded the lighthouse of Cabo de Saõ Vicente (the bottom left corner of the Iberian Peninsula). And there we were at midnight in rolly Sagres anchorage having dodged fishing pots and buoys. As we entered the bay in darkness I could see a faint line quite close crossing our path with a light on it. Half a mile later it was still in front of us and I realised it was the simply the surf running up the beach! The light was a beachcomber working away late at night!

First Algarve daybreak.

Chilling out on the way to Lagos.

Next morning in strengthening winds we sailed east to the marina at Lagos. By an amazing coincidence the Clipper race was just finishing their first leg in neighbouring Portimao and we chased Seattle, the boat on which friend Linda had crewed two years earlier, towards Lagos. As they hit a wind hole we almost caught them up before we too slowed to nothing. So we motored into Lagos where we drank a toast to Jack in the aptly named LazyJacks. The next day bought better news. One  major operation later Jack still manages to be his up-beat self. Get well soon Jack.

Lazyjacks seemed appropriate.

The next big event was the arrival of Andy who we first met in Kas, Turkey. He was one of the brave men that answered our call for regatta crew. He arrived to 25 knot winds so we set him straight to work whipping ropes, labelling and generally 'learning the ropes'. As he is an experienced sailor we agreed he would helm the races and that Gilly and I would do the rest.

Trying to work the Label Printer!

A trial sail and discussions whilst walking along the beach confirmed this as a good approach. Then it was back to work as we tried to fix (again) the water lock in the aft lazarette. Luckily Andy was smaller than me and drew the short straw.

Back in that lazarette. This time Andy.

Finally fixed for good?

There's a long canal and a lifting bridge to negotiate in the entrance to the Marina de Lagos as we all streamed out for Day 1 of the racing. The wind was very light, the swell around 1.5m and Mehalah just bobbed along. The course was 17 miles long. We, along with almost half the fleet, wimped out after four hours with only 1/3 of the course completed and returned to the marina. Free drinks that night. Day 2 was even worse so we just didn't race. But Day 3 was great. 8-10 knots, increasing to 18 in the second race and suddenly Mehalah became, moderately, competitive. We had a great time even if we were still last but one in each race.

Start of the first race.

End of the first race.

That evening was 'the party'. Prize giving etc and some tasty food along with plenty of drink. Chilly in the night air though. Andy managed to get a good photo of a trophy we hadn't won!

The trophy we did not win!

And then it was today. We'd been trying to work out how to run all the lines for our massive parasailor sail. With all three of us in agreement we ventured again down the canal and out into a flat sea with 6 knots of wind. Lines in position, sail bag emptied...and up she goes. Magnificent or what? Absolutely beautiful. We tried various points of sail. When we got in a bit of a muddle trying to gybe we decided to use discretion to call it a day.

Downwind sailing Part 2. The parasailor.

Up she goes.

Wow, just wow!

Andy goes back to England tomorrow. We will miss him. He has been great fun and a great member of Team Mehalah. Thanks Andy.

Here's an offer you can't refuse!

WANTED: CREW IN PORTUGAL LATER THIS MONTH.

From 11th to 15th September we have entered a regatta in Lagos, southern Portugal. We need two or three crew to help us sail Mehalah. We've never raced before and it's just a social regatta. Mehalah is our home so we won't be busting a gut but it should be great fun.

Flights are cheap to Faro so do let us know if you would like to join us:

Here's a link if you would like to know more.

Go on, why not give it a go. Live dangerously!

Full blog at: www.yachtmehalah.blogspot.com

Galician Rias

Date: 13th July 2019
Current Location: Ensenada de Barra, otherwise known as Bare Arse Beach, Ria de Vigo

"Go to Galicia" they said, "Don't miss the rias". They were right. Charming they are, just out of the force of those northerlies rushing southwards from A Coruña. Each one different but each delightful in its own way. Lots of pictures this time at Wendy's(?) request.

Muros, out of the way and understated. It knows what it is and doesn't pretend otherwise. Our first experience of the rias and a good one. Tapas bars, friendly locals, an almost empty anchorage. This was to be the story for the next few weeks. Only the Irish seem to have discovered this lovely cruising ground.

Muros. Shellfish hunter with Mehalah at anchor behind.

Chilling in Muros. Dos cafes con leche por favor.

The market at Muros.

Then south round the corner to Ria de Arousa and the marina in Vilagarcia. They gave us a nice easy berth and we set off to find .... a launderette! Every couple of weeks and especially after a bit of a passage this is a good way to get to know the new town. They are usually hidden away just off the main part of the town. Gilly tried her Spanish on the guy in the marina office. Unfortunately he spoke Galician so she just picked up 'fountain', big building and Repsol station. This proved almost enough but Mrs Google did have to get us the last couple of hundred yards to Oso Blanco (White Bear) launderette. And what a launderette! Probably the best ever. Gives change, 7 euro for 18kg, clean, nice musac, self service, empty except for us, soap powder included.

A new town. A new hunt for washing facilities.

Vilagarcia is where we met up with the girls and their boyfriends (not men, blokes or partners apparently)! Emma flew out from the UK, tired from recent work trips with Medecines sans Frontiers to South Africa and Uzbekistan. Giardia or not Giardia, that is the question? Not, it seems. Jen and Marcus of course came by train via a very hard two days walking along the coast around Finistere. Chris joined us later for a spot of dolphin watching.

What a time we had. First a 2 mile dinghy trip to Isla Cortegada, a National Park where the local fishermen catch seafood at low tide, which it was. Many of those shellfish were then eaten at an exceptional seafood meal that evening.

Low water springs. Time to go hunting shellfish with cages on the end of long poles.

Don't have a boat. then dig 'em up along the shore.

The Nature Reserve (me with my new T-shirt on)!

Unprepossessing entrance to the best shellfish restaurant in the world.

Waiting for dinner.

The week continued with good sailing, beautiful anchorages, no fog, and mackerel caught off the boat for dinner. Jenny and Chris thought I only gave them the handlines to get them out of my hair until the mackerel turned up. Oh yea of little faith. We had a blast and we were very sorry to see them all heading off home. Ten trips to the train station in five days I think it was.

Jobs day!

Captain Chris.

Jenny and Marcus.

Dolphin spotting together.

Chris and Jenny braved the cold....

....Emma did not.

Last day together. L to R. Marcus, Chris, John, Jenny, Gill and Emma.

On our last trip to the station we went with Jen and Marcus to Santiago de Compostela. We visited the cathedral museum which was of course religious and all in Spanish (I suppose we are in Spain) but at the top you come out on the balcony and look down on the square where the 'pilgrims' finish their long Camino walk. I loved it here. Everywhere there are singles, couples and groups quietly taking in what they have achieved. Hugs and tears. And then from the corner of the square in came a line of maybe 150 Spanish students. Barefooted, hands held, completely quiet they formed a big circle and their leader led them in prayer. Very moving. Then the emotions were allowed to run riot. Songs, chants and many Spanish flags. Everyone smiling. We went down to the square to be with these people who had just achieved something they will remember for the rest of their lives.

Santiago de Compostela cathedral.

Quiet prayer before....

...letting those emotions out.

Pensive in the square.

Smiley in the square.

Once the girls had left we continued to work our way south down the rias so that now we are in the most southerly, Ria de Vigo. It really is a working area especially for fishing. We've started walking fairly hard each day to prepare us for our upcoming annual Big Walk and we continue to be charmed by this forgotten little corner of Spain. Next week we welcome Dave and Vera for a week. Then it's back up north to Muros to put Mehalah in a boatyard whilst we return to the UK for three weeks.

Hasta la vista!

Galician fishermen hauling nets.

Time to start getting fit for the Big Walk. A tiny vineyard amongst the pine trees.

Mehalah and a Danish yacht at anchor off Combarro.

Looking out over the Atlantic from the entrance to Vigo ria.

Mussel farms known as 'viveiros'.

Hauling nets.

Dolphin.

Old grain store.

Old boat.

Fishing for  shellfish with even longer sticks!

The anchorage at Bare Arse Bay - a famous nudist beach.