The Many Facets of Martinique

Current Location: St Anne Anchorage, Martinique

Well, we are still here. This week has been the story of a water pump, friends and boat ownership.

First off, the water pump. Regular readers (I do believe there are some) will know that the water pump on Petronella has been a problem since we bought her. This is the pump that bolts onto the crankshaft. Rotation of the crankshaft turns an impeller that pumps water from the sea through a heat exchanger and back into the sea via the exhaust. The heat exchanger plays the same role as the radiator on a car, cooling the fresh water that keeps the engine from overheating. We have two of these pumps, neither of which is really functioning any longer. Each time one breaks I try to rebuild it using replacement parts and bits from the other one. This time I think it is past mending. Just when we are trying to sell her too. So, you might think – buy a replacement. Yes and no. These pumps it seems have been out of production for more than 25 years and I can’t find a second hand one either. So we need a new type. Boaties love this sort of problem so everyone has been chipping in with their chosen solution. In the end we opt for a Johnson F6B-9 as the solution. Here’s a lovely picture of them both.

Old pump still in place on the crankshaft

New pump in St Martin prior to shipping (thanks Alex!)

 The Johnson had to be sourced from St Martin further up the island chain. At present Fedex tracking system tells me it has arrived in Martinique but is stuck in customs. This is silly because it is “Yacht in Transit” delivery which should mean no duty payable. We shall see. Even once it arrives I have to find a chap who will build a circular plate to go from the new pump to the crankshaft pulleys. More expense, and more chance that it won’t all fit together. Thanks to Dave and Vera for transport and consultancy, to Dick and Jack for ideas and to Alex and Carla for organising the shipping from St Martin.. Now I just need it to come together.

Meanwhile things are moving forward with boat sale although unfortunately we have withdrawn from our purchase of Tiger Lily as the owners were not prepared to do the required investigation work. Our mate John A though still seems very keen to buy Petronella. It’s all looking promising but we still have the water pump, survey, insurance and registration issues to finalise. Fingers crossed. Meanwhile we have started sorting out documentation and things that we will need to take back to the UK if and when she sells.

Finally we’ve had Dave and Vera over here for the week. D+V live next to our house in Cumbria and are frequent visitors to Petronella. This could be their last time aboard her. They hired a car for the week which not only allowed us to take the liferaft into Le Marin for service and to chase up waterpump bits but also to explore the island a bit. Martinique is tres, tres Francais (sp?) and very varied. Fort de France the capital feels more like an extremely busy western European capital and with the petrol drivers’ strike on Wednesday we could have been in France itself.

Outside of the capital though it’s a mixture of beaches, small rather scruffy small towns, the famous St Pierre with its volcano, and super green, jungly jungle. We’ve seen it all this week. Mount Pelee is the third most dangerous volcano in the world – well that’s what they call it because in 1902 it erupted after weeks of rumbling, killing over 30,000 people. Even today it looms over the town. Only one guy, so the story goes, survived. He was in solitary confinement in the town gaol. He was rescued 4 days later when people managed to get to him and let him out. He subsequently became a star act with Bertrams circus, displaying his burns and recounting his story.

 

The famous old theatre at St Pierre with the devestating volvano (Mount Pelee) in the background

The solitary confinement cell where the only survivor of the earthquake was found, days later

Up in the jungly jungle. Poisson with refried beans, rice and dasheen, a root vegetable. Plenty of carbs!

Limbo, Limbo

Current Location: St Anne anchorage, Martinique

Petronella at anchor in St Anne

Not the 'shuffling under the bar' limbo but the 'nothing much has actually happened' limbo.

It's always hard to write a blog after such a long break as I don't know whether to relate the 'what has happened since last time' story or to pick out a few notable incidents. This will probably end up as a bit of both.

After the big storm we decided to move Petronella into the marina in Le Marin. This is always stressful partly just because manoeuvring a 20 ton, 14.5m, hard to steer in reverse boat in tight spaces is inherently stressful and partly because we say we are only 12m long to save money! This means we end up in a narrow channel with little in the way of escape routes. My walkie talkie fell off my head and we made the decision to buy some posh ones back in UK. Anyway we got tied up with only a nudge from the marineros boat.

Next to us was another steel boat and her lady owner. Her partner had been taken seriously ill and returned to France. Valerie and her dog Luna were trying to decide whether she should continue to sail, now on her own as her partner wanted, or if she too should return to France. Domestic decisions and choices to be made wherever you look.

Soon though it was time for the UK. Flight from Martinique to Paris and our first time on the super fast, slightly tatty Eurostar back to St Pancras. Martinique actually operates as a department of France so at check in here you go through the usual EU entry process but when you get to Paris there is no immigration and you just walk straight out. Weird.

Our time in the UK was the usual packed time. Visits to see Gill's sisters and uncle Sid, Simon and Jane and friend Lynda in Cumbria all gave us opportunities to catch up with good friends and relations. Dave Wilton and Val and Andy dropping by on their journeys up the M5 and we caught up on all the 'life-admin' jobs that don't get done whilst we are away. For Christmas we had a lovely time. My mum is doing well without dad but it is a long, hard process of readjustment. Phil and Jane are slowly coming to terms without Sam and we were all joined by Emma, our younger daughter, for the holiday period. It was lovely to see Em for almost a week and it was a good break for her. Her first management role at just three days a week together with an MSc meant she was ready for a break. Lovely to see you Wombat! No such reunion with Jen though. We missed her badly and I think she missed us too far away in Uruguay. Gill's camera had broken so I was tasked with taking the festive people photos. But I forgot. Oh dear, unpopular was putting it mildly, though I did get a good picture of the fridge stuffed with food on Christmas Eve!!

Soon it was New Year and we were invited back 'home' to Cumbria for the annual gastronomic extravaganza. Dave, Vera, Chris, Audrey, Helen and Jonathan told us that this year was our turn for the main course so our excellent Beef Wellington joined, exotic canapes, three fish starters, amazing puddings, cheese and plenty of booze rounded off by the usual 'fireworks in the rain' from Ross. It really was great to be back with the Cumbrian crew. If anywhere still feels like home then this is it. Thanks guys!

New Year's Eve with good friends

The Aftermath

Our house in Cumbria is still not finally sold and it looks as though this might take a bit of time yet - but it will happen so we are pretty chilled about it. The car required more work. Thanks Phil and Jane for acting as the go-between here.

We also caught up with Hugh and Linda. Linda has been accepted on the first two stages of the Round the World Clipper race this year. At 60 something she will be one of the older crew members but I have to say I'm pretty envious. Gill is not!!

Soon we were winging our way back to Martinique and into the continuing story or selling Petronella and buying a new boat, hopefully to one day take us through the Panama Canal and across the Pacific. However, things are not plain sailing. We've had a great guy from Miami interested. Download his book (https://www.amazon.com/Unlikely-Voyage-miles-alone-wooden/dp/0692601430) for a good read an idea of how he would be the ideal new owner for P. He came out for a couple of days sailing with us outof Fort de France. Perfect conditions and he fell in love with her.

Showing John A the ropes

The pretty village of Trois Islets

Trying out the lightweather sail donated to us in the BVIs

But he's having family problems and trouble with the US insurers getting insurance. Now we are talking with a French professional saxophonist as well in case our first buyer falls through. We've sent details now to 28 people so hopefully we will get a sale eventually. If John A does buy her we will sail P up to the Bahamas with him and his Brazilian wife. Watch this space.

At the same time we have had a survey done on Tiger Lily II, a 47' Hylas yacht, American made and well respected over here. Unfortunately the survey showed a potentially serious rudder problem so the owners have taken her back to Grenada to identify the problem and fix it. We might still be interested once we know how serious the problem is. Meanwhile we are tentatively looking further afield for a replacement.

Tiger Lily has a TALL mast. Rigging inspection.

That looks like a VERY, VERY stiff rudder

As a result of all this we are still here in Martinique. Our friends (and my osteopath) Dave and M-C have made it across the Atlantic after a slow and problem ridden crossing in their beautiful Najad 49 and it was fantastic to meet up with them last week. Now Dave and Melinda in Sassoon have set off from the Canaries and are headed down towards the Cape Verdes as I type. It all makes me want to get moving again but until we know the fate of Petronella it is hard to know which direction to move in. My guess is we will end up in Antigua for Classics Week as a further shop window for P. 

Fishing at anchor is going well. My reputation is starting to run before me and I was asked to help with basic angling techniques on Carpe Diem.

Four at once (and another one had just dropped off)

Lesson 1

A new angler is born...

....and the older one fishes on into the night

 

Checking the local crabbing lines

Here in Martinique we have friends all around us, both new and old. As well as the WiFi enabled patisserie (yum!) we've walked and run along the mangrove swamps to famous Saline Bay and held beach sundowner parties watching Venus, Mars, Cassiopeia (sp?), satellites and, new for me, Sirius competing with the fireflies as the sun goes down. Temperatures? A steady 24 to 27 degrees Celsius. Just pleasant. 

Jobs 1 - The extremely efficient launderette

Jobs 2 - Scrubbing the bottom (Petronella's)

Our local beach

Gill with Dick (Alacazam)

John with Mary (Alacazam)

Fantastic Thai food with Brian and Kitty (Scraatch)

Sundowners on the beach with Jack,Fizzy, Brian, Kitty, Ben, Lucy, Dick and Mary

Sailing gossip

Land of Milk and Honey (and Croissants and Coffee)

Current Location: St Annes Bay, Martinique

We’ve made it to Martinique. This is where we will leave Petronella for Christmas and New Year.

For a change, instead of writing something new, here is our log from the time we left Carriacou (just north of Grenada) until Monday morning.

View from the remote anchorage of Isle de Ronde, south of Carriacou

Sunday 27^th November 2016

Up at 5am. Rained all night. Pouring. Winds look good. E 10 to 15 knots until it turns ESE and strengthening. But it’s going to be a wet 26 hours.

0600 – Anchor up, blustery start, engine on. Sails up, slightly hairy as, of course, it gusts to 20 knots at just the wrong time. 15k ENE. Full sails up. Reefed main after a squall.

0740 – Fish on! Caught a tuna. 5lbs on the new cedar plug. Gilly gutted it for the fridge. Whoop. Whoop. Now off Union Island. Going well. Bowling along at more than 7k on a flattish sea, Wanda [wind steering] on steering us at 010 degrees north.

Tuna - caught on the new cedar plug - just the right size for eating - yum, yum

0855 – The day has brightened up. Flattish sea. E wind. Averaging over 6k still, in the right direction! Fishing ceased. Waterproofs off.

1100 – Still cracking on. Slipped downwind. Shook out reef. St Vincent now clear off the starboard bow. Sunny but squalls over the islands. Speed 5.4k.

1315 – Speed 6.3k. Track 021 degrees. Crossed St Vincent/Bequia channel. Sun out. The world is good. Cup-a-Soup for lunch. 16 hours to St Annes would give 0515 tomorrow. 84 miles to go.

Cracking on, on flat seas, north Union Island

1414 – Just got sails balanced and J noticed outhaul coming loose. Engine on (Battery 2 after Battery 1 refused to start!). Sails down, readjust outhaul. All back together again now and sailing. Engine charging on Battery 1 for a bit. Now to get sails set as we cruise down the western side of St Vincent.

1500 – Rats. Lost wind behind St Vincent. Engine northwards.

1700 – Finally a bit of wind. Engine off (too early?). Let’s hope we can sail to St Lucia. Curry for tea. Get ready for night time.

1750 – Staysail down, main reefed for night, wash, washup. All too late, again!

1900 – Dark. Gilly saw boat coming towards us that was probably an aeroplane. St Lucia off our starboard bow. Stars with some cloud. 10-14k ESE, 6-7k boat speed. Estimated arrival at St Annes now 0600 but plenty of variables still. Both awake at present.

2300 – Awoken by John. 10-12k forward of the beam he hit a wind shadow from the Pitons of 2.5k. Wanda turned us round. I got up groggy, we turned the boat round and I thought we were going backwards! Soon got P back on track and jogged along at 3-4k down the side of St Lucia. Wind got up as we passed Rodney Bay during John’s next watch. So pleased the main was reefed and staysail taken down.

0130 (Monday 28^th November) – Left the shelter of St Lucia. Seas rolly and a bit of spray came in. 14k from SE. Made a good course – in fact too high so had to ease off as we approached Martinique. Lightening all around us.

0600 – Approaching Martinique at dawn on a lumpy sea. Cloudy but sun came up as we motored into the anchorage at 0700. Jack (Carpe Diem) came out in his dinghy to welcome us. Wonderful. Sails down and anchored in 6m, 35m of chain out. We are here. Sorted out boat. Raining so put sails up to wash them, until the wind got up. 135 miles in 24 hours. Great sail.

Went over to Carpe Diem and took Fizzy and their passengers Lottie and Max into St Annes. Checked in in the café near Huit a Huit then on to the patisserie for coffee and pain au chocolat. YES. It’s beautiful here.Lots of boats basking on a calm sea.

Petronella at anchor again (actually back in Isle de Ronde!)

We were invited back to Carpe Diem for John’s tuna. Great evening….until the wind went round to the west. CD bumped as it hit a shallow patch. We saw lights come on in the anchorage and got back to P just in time. We were dragging down towards a catamaran. Nightmare! Got engine started as the wind got up to 40k. John picked up the anchor very slowly. Dark, sprayey, windy, boats dragging everywhere. Eventually we were free, then the steering chain fell off the tiller. Shit. By now there were big rollers sweeping (we heard 6’ and 8’ waves mentioned on the radio this morning). Bowling along out of control through the anchorage with 25k of wind. John rushed aft and took the tiller and I shouted ‘port’ or ‘starboard’ as we weaved through the fleet then anchored but not until the steering has come off another twice. Eventually we anchored in 6m at least 100m away from everyone else and watched as people re-anchored all over the place. Dreadful two hours. At one point a big cat passed us motoring into the waves with big waves making it rear up.

Then we had to get the engine off the dinghy in case it got swamped in the waves. The swell was big. Poor John got tossed around. But finally we settled down for a rolly night.

In the morning boats radioed in damage. One boat on the shore, dinghies trashed or sunk, anchors abandoned after rodes chaffed through. It was a massive localised squall but huge. Further south boats were also lost on St Lucia last night. Carpe Diem had managed to re-anchor and survived the night too.

Lessons Learned: 1. Even our trusty Rocna anchor can drag. There do seem to be some softer patches of sand. Perhaps that why we dragged? 2. We need new head torches. 3. We managed extremely difficult circumstances with no damage to ourselves, P or any other boat. Quite a night!!

In other news we have had a lot of interest in Petronella with several interested parties. So we have decided if we can to buy Tiger Lily, if necessary before we sell P. This is a big decision as two boats mean double the cost of berthing and maintenance, double the hassle and just quite a big risk all round. We don't usually do risks like this but Tiger Lily is now here in Martinique and so convenient compared for example with a boat we were looking at in Portland, Oregon! We meet Tiger Lily's current owners for further discussion in the near future.

Insecurities

Current Location: Prickly Bay, Grenada. Preparing to leave for Carriacou tomorrow or Monday.

What is going on? Where is home?

All the things that used to define me are disappearing. Our house in Cumbria is sort of sold, but sort of not. We have a small apartment in Stroud but apart from my mum and my brother and family we don’t know anyone else in the area. No GlaxoSmithKline any longer, in fact no ‘job’ at all. Our car is broken. And our boat is for sale. We have our eye on a new(er) boat but I don’t want two boats at the same time if we can avoid it. Until recently when people asked where ‘home’ was I would have said “Europe” but post Brexit even that doesn’t feel right any longer.

Will we ever be able to settle down ANYWHERE? Do I want to? When? Where?

Should I stop listening to philosophy podcasts [ha, ha]?

It’s not just me though. I think many of us lucky baby boomers feel the same. A good percentage of our best friends have also travelled widely and several of us face the same questions. Grandchildren, ill health and ageing parents seem to be the issues for most of us. And these are hard questions. In the past we were living 9 or 10 months a year on the boat in Greece and Turkey. Petronella really was ‘home’. We averaged two or three thousand miles a year culminating in 8,000 the year we crossed Atlantic. Last year, a very difficult year for our family, we spent over half the year in the UK.

Maybe this is just what another month in the boatyard does to you. At least we launched on Saturday and the knackered water pump is repaired….again! All the jobs are done and Petronella is looking as good as ever. We will sail to Carriacou and then onwards through the Grenadines to Martinique. In just over a month we will be back in the UK again for Christmas without my dad, Sam or Jenny for the first year ever it seems.

Meanwhile, excitement mounts on the other side of the Atlantic. Dave & Melinda, Dave & M-C and Steve & Diedre are all getting ready for their own Atlantic crossings. Fair winds, big ocean rollers and harmonious passages to you all. I feel some more parties coming on. And JoJo, when will you be back?

A Bit a Dis, a Bit a Dat

Current Location: Clarkes Court Marina, Grenada

We've been back here now for around three weeks. I keep meaning to write something and then the moment passes.

The hurricane we were all worrying about eventually decided to bypass Grenada but as you will have heard Matthew certainly did not bypass Haiti and surrounding countries. One of the worst hurricanes for ten years and there are still emergency boats going up island taking supplies of sails, ropes, canned food and water to Haiti.

Anyway, back to my flight out. Gilly, you will remember had already flown out. Here's what I wrote to Gilly at 3am in Port of Spain, Trinidad's departure lounge.

I am currently the ONLY person in the departures lounge at Port of Spain!

So, I woke up at 5.15am to find that my phone was flashing. one message, from WestJet. Ah, that'll be my flight confirmation. Is it hell - it's only a cancellation!!! Wake up very quickly. Creep into Hugh and Linda's study and ring WestJet. No reply. Try again - I'm through. Just getting ready to crap on 'em when they tell me they have booked me on the 10am BA flight via St Lucia. Wake up H and L, confirm they can take me to Gatwick three and a half hours earlier than planned, slurp down a cup of tea, have a shower and off we go. As it happens we are there in plenty of time.

Uneventful flight (no upgrade - boo) and we arrive in Trini at 4pm. It then takes me two hours to go out through Immigration and Customs and back through customs after I have checked in for my Caribbean Airlines flight. Not least because they gave me a boarding pass for a different person and a different flight [I almost arrived this evening at 9pm as Mr Broomfield]!

Also, as usual, my debit card has refused to give me any local currency so I am going to VERY hungry by the time I get to P (or CD?) tomorrow.

Since our arrival much of the time has been spent chipping, grinding and painting. This does not make for interesting blogging so here's what we've been up to in between.

Yoga at the university is a regular Monday outing with Jack and Fizzy, followed up by beers and pizza at our favourite Port Louis restaurant.

Yoga at St Georges University

I had to slip in a couple of 'work' pictures. Here is our Cuban welder, Carlos, preparing a small rusted area for a new piece of steel. Carlos spends most of his life in Grenada earning money to support his family back in Cuba. His English is pretty good and we had a good laugh with him. Like many Cubans he is extremely well educated. He trained as a vet specialising in cow pregnancies. But opportunities once qualified are few so he had done a bit of welding with his dad as he grew up in Cuba and came over here to practice his trade. A very good welder he is too.

Welding up the hole in the cockpit

VERY, VERY hot below. On fire watch as the welding is completed.

On the next boat to us are Hazel (UK) and Jeff (USA). Hazel bought this pretty boat, a Sweden 37, in Florida. The idea was to sail it back to the UK. Somehow they started cruising down the islands and won't be returning across the Atlantic for at least another year or two. Amazingly they met Wendy Scott-Jupp our friend from Christchurch UK, at a hash in the new forest during the summer.

Our neighbours across the garden fence. Hazel and Jeff on Susimi.

And then we were off on another hash of our own (Google Grenada hash for more info). This was a special on a boat. We left The Carenage in St Georges at 2.30pm with 250 hashers aboard. Southwest to BBC Beach (why?) and then a steep climb up into the hills, along the ridge, down to the coast and back to the boat along the beach. Everything got a bit messy after that with large quantities of alcohol being consumed, dancing on the lower deck and peace and tranquillity on the upper deck. A great day out.

The view back to St Georges the capital of Grenada

Some of the greatest dreads on the island!

Pre-messiness

Messy

Wife, happy to be back on the water

Annoying boat (it turned 20 seconds before passing in front of the setting sun)!

Next day we were invited to a party on the beach with local friends. This turned out to be a fine outing. One of the highlights was the sound system consisting of two car batteries, a solar panel (not connected to anything even though there was a solar controller installed), random pieces of wire and three very large speakers. The batteries lasted for about 3 hours before slowly reducing in volume until the rain started and we all went home.

Very important job. Sorting out the sound system.

Cultural exchange. 13 year old cruising kid Lily feeding 16 day old baby whilst Mum supervises.

 Meanwhile the dinghy started leaking....twice. Donal the local Irish dinghy fixer fixed it the first time but it has just gone down again so we are waiting for him to reappear with 'options to move forward'.

More dinghy problems. Still not fixed.

Today was Thanksgiving Day in Grenada. Why? Nobody seems to know but it is a national holiday anyhow. Across the water outside the famous Taffy's Bar the local children had their regatta and fun day. Great entertainment. We still can't understand the broad Grenadian patois but there were traditional boat races, beer drinking contests for the older participants and swimming competitions. But best of all was the Breathtaking Contest for under 12s. This consisted of a marshall counting 1, 2, 3 Go. On Go each contestant took a deep breath and ducked under the water. The winner was the last one to surface and boy did they want to win. Fantastic entertainment for the spectators. We briefly ventured into the rum shack set up for the event to see if we could get a fizzy water for Gilly to drink. All they sold was rum and weed! The air was heavy with the pungent smell of marijuana.

Thanksgiving Day. Regatta and party for local Grenadians.

Wow. See what a hard life this all is!

Tomorrow will be an interesting day too. We have decided to sell Petronella (if we can out here) and buy another boat on which to continue our travels westwards. You can see P's advert here. If you know anyone who might be interested in her do let me know!! We looked at a Stevens 47 last week and tomorrow it's a Hylas 47. A bigger, more complex boat than Petronella but with more comfort as we look towards the future. Here's a link to this one. We're in no hurry though. We'll just see what develops.


Oh, I forgot Trafalgar Day. There are quite a few ex naval types here both living ashore and on boats. Last night we were invited by some of them to celebrate Nelson's famous victory over the dastardly Frogs. Most of the other guests seemed to be millionaires living in smart houses along the south coast here but after a few beers, and compulsory rum, everyone got on just great. The head of Grenada's coastguard was there (in fact the evening was hosted by Jean, the widow of Jim and the guy who originally set up the coastguard here). Also in attendance a former Harrier Jump Jet squadron leader from the Falklands, several retired businessmen and Wally, the local glass bottomed boat owner who married a rich English girl following a brief affair after she came out for a holiday!

What else? We went to a salsa dancing lesson. Well,I say we went for a lesson. Gill and Fizzy had a lesson. Jack and I just watched and admired the sinuous and youthful scenery. A couple of musical evenings too. Jack is becoming an accepted member of the scene here along with Country Dave and his friends. Robin, on a catamaran here accompanied us in the bus to Secret Harbour along with Dave and Alicia who are helping Robin under the Workaway scheme. In fact David happens to be founder of Workaway which puts hosts and volunteers in contact with each other. They are working on Robin's boat in exchange for food and a sail once he launches. There are over 200,000 members of Workaway now at $20US per person. Nice work if you can get it! For those of you that remember Computex, my home exchange site, this could have been me if I could just have kept it going for another year or two.

Right, I've spent the last two hours writing this for you whilst sitting next to the marina office being bitten to death by mosquitoes. I hope you appreciate this devotion to duty.

Good night.

John

We're Back...

Current Location: Ebley, Gloucestershire, UK

Well, not exactly back in Grenada but this time next week Gill at least will be. With a bit of luck I will be too but before that I have a 24 hour trip from Gatwick via Toronto (yes, that really is Toronto in Canada) and Trinidad.

That all assumes though that the Windward Islands are still standing! At present there is a nasty low / tropical storm / hurricane developing off to the east of the southern Caribbean islands - just where we are...

Today's map from the National Hurricane Center

The internet is a-buzz with predictions as to how this thing is going to develop and where it might make landfall. Will it turn north, will it fizzle out or will it develop into a full blown hurricane like Hurricane Ivan that hit Grenada in 2004. The truth is that no-one really knows and even the experts can't make up their mind. The next three days are likely to provide the answer.

Aftermath of Hurricane Ivan 2004

Meanwhile, back on the islands our friends are making their way into the mangroves, laying additional anchors and removing the few things still outside that might increase windage. And they are looking at the neighbouring boats because more damage is done by other peoples' boats sweeping through the anchorage than by the wind itself. We are especially concerned for Jen up in Martinique with only her dog as crew. Stay safe guys.

Hopefully though this will just be another of those false alarms and forgotten in a week or two. Petronella is still on the hard and looks safe enough and well tied down according to Jack on Carpe Diem (thanks Jack). All people can do now is wait and see.


So, after a couple of months back here in the UK we're down to the final preparations for our return. Bits ordered. Bits arrived for delivery to friends in the islands. The last few jobs all squeezed into the remaining hours. It's going to be another bitty season I predict. We have promised to return to the UK for Christmas so we will try to get up to Martinique by then. My particular aim this season is to improve my fishing skills. To that end tackle shops around Europe are now devoid of lures, hooks and line. Watch this space.

The Bamboo Hut

Current Location: The Bamboo Hut, SE Grenada

This one is for all you budding eco-home builders.

We’ve just spent two nights in our friend Paul’s temporary living structure, otherwise known as his bamboo hut. Paul’s dad was black Grenadian, his mother white British. He was born and brought up in the East End of London, neither white nor black. He had a hard childhood. But he became a BBC documentary maker before returning to Grenada, the land of his father. Here he sells LED lights to locals and mega yacht owners alike. He is an unusual and fascinating man and a super person. He has also lived in Stroud, close to the flat we have recently purchased and is a performer at Stroud’s annual Fringe (I think that is its name).

When Paul discovered we had several nights to spend aboard Petronella he said “that’s hot and dusty with lots of mosquitoes. Come and stay in my bamboo hut instead”. So we did.

The hut is his retreat from the village where he has his main home. He spends around 3 nights every two weeks there. We arrived via a 10 minute red, muddy, slippery slope on friend Jenny’s land. At the bottom of the hill, in the rain forest, was the hut. Made from local bamboo this was his second attempt. The first one was quickly attacked by termites because the bamboo had been cut on a waxing moon rather than a waning one. This meant that the sap was still in the bamboo which in turn attracted the termites which in turn ate his house. It only lasted a few months!

The Hut - first impressions

Bamboo hut with raw material growing in the background

Mossie net in the bedroom

It’s beautiful down there but far from quiet. The river was quite high and as night fell the tree frogs started to shout too. And then the fire flies came out to play. Some orange and permanently lit up, others white and flashing. Then in the middle of the night the rain started and the noise was deafening. By the time it stopped the river was roaring and Gill got up to make sure we were not about to get washed away.

Construction

The view upstream

The view downstream

Time for a cup of tea

Surprisingly there very few mossies up here even though everything was damp and either growing or dying. You can happily walk around barefoot (and bare everything else if you wish). The ground is soft and covered in decaying vegetation. As in the rest of the Caribbean there were not many animals. The islands are nearly all volcanic and very recent in geological terms so there just hasn’t been enough time for animals to colonise. There are a few monkeys higher up but no snakes and very few mammals except mongeese. Lots of lizards and iguanas though. It is just a fabulous place to be. For two days we had no jobs to do. We simply swam, lazed around, read a few kindle books and did some puzzles. I spent half an hour standing in the water doing the washing up after breakfast, which included freshly picked bananas. We made a fire which was absolutely hopeless at cooking our sweet corn and squash but it didn’t really matter.

Nightime approaches

Time for bed

Skinny dipping

The fire that never was

On the evening of the second day Paul and Jenny came to visit us for cheese and biscuits together with some of Jenny’s freshly made juice drink and her menagerie of rescue dogs. We put the world to rights which was remarkably very simple and straight forward to do in a beautiful place with beautiful people.

Paul - mastermind of the hut

Jenny with one of her rescue dogs

As well as the bamboo structure itself, which consists of a bedroom/kitchen and balcony Paul has all services laid on. Water comes from the stream – you just take a pan down to gather water for cooking or jump in for a wash or a swim. Electricity is generated by a small solar panel that sits on the roof and feeds a yellow controller/battery. Into this box you can plug up to 6 LED light bulbs and two USB connectors. There is also a flashlight function. Sewage is managed via a high tech hole in the ground with a concrete block surmounted by a wooden seat and surrounded by a couple of bamboo screens. Actually it’s not high tech at all. Apparently if we had some wool and bits of coconut we could have caught crawfish in the river. But we didn’t, so we couldn’t.

Toilette - au naturelle

The beating heart of the electrical distribution system

Solar Panel

 But by this morning we had to return to the boat so we carted everything back up the even slipperier slope back to Jenny’s wonderful house at the top of the hill before she drove us back to the boatyard. Two days in a wondrous environment. Perhaps an eco-house will be our next big project someday.